New Design: Lattice Back Jacket

DSC_1619-2I was captivated by an amazing cable panel in one of Barbara Walkers’ treasuries of stitch patterns, and knew I wanted it in a divine but not too dark a colour, so I chose melange purple in one of my favorite yarns: Ask-Hifa 2 using a 3.5 mm/US 4. Both Made By Me editor Mary-Ann Astrup and Makeløs/Remarkable stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik, approved of my color choice for this jacket in our series of Jugend style designs. The cable panel fitted easily onto the back, but not on each front, unless I made a sweater instead of jacket, but the design itself wanted to be a jacket so I had to ponder for awhile how to adorn the fronts and then the sleeves. The solution became obvious after studying the chart for a time; a set of three straight cables, identical to the moving central one in the chart. I knew it would give a classic look to the fronts hence it became a fitted vintage style jacket with a v-neck and eleven small buttons. Of course, I wanted Siri Berrefjord’s bespoke buttons (read: like an addiction) but realized that they needed to be small, hence would not show off their supreme quality. The Lattice Back Jacket pattern is available in Norwegian in Made By Me 2/2014, see the previous post, while the English version is currently being test knitted in my group on Ravelry and will be released on its completion.

DSC_1616-PS Edit-2What kind of edging do I want? I opted for a double hem, which I love, and then increase stitches for each cable in a set-up row, work using a smaller sized needle; a 3 mm/US 2.5 in this case. I do not always work this type of hem with 2 circular needles held together (see my blogpost with a video for hem & tuck making here: Knitting Techniques Videos) and use 1 as a stitch holder until it is complete because it does tend to roll a bit hence not stay as flat as I like it. Therefore I often prefer to attach it on the wrong side by hand, stitch by stitch at the end, that is my kind of embroidery.

DSC_1651-2The jacket is shaped for the waist in the sides in stockinette stitch. Just as the increases on the sleeves are made in stockinette stitch. I have made each front is 1 cm wider than 1/2 the back circumference, to achieve symmetry, usual in typical vintage garments. I was advised by the test knitters of my Tyrol Jacket, which has the same shape, to add under notes: “This jacket is like vintage jackets very fitted, please compare your waist measurements to the size you need and adjust if necessary, to make sure it will fit.” I initially made the jacket in sizes S (M, L, XL, 2XL) but since I received a few messages requesting an XS size, I have added it to the test knit. I am still looking for test knitters for size 2XL, so if you are interested send me a message on Ravelry.

20140605 MbM 680The buttons are made by husband in Fimo Soft modelling clay, they are shaped and a part of a paper clip is bended into a loop inserted into the ball, and then hardened in the oven. I had showed him Siri’s buttons, and this is his attempt. As you can see there is no pattern, and no layers of painted colors, only two colors mixed trying to achieve the right shade of purple. So the result is quite different from what both my husband and I had in mind, but it works very well. To add a bit of glamor to it, Kristin accessorized it with a brilliant brooch made by Siri, added meters and meters of chiffon fabric to make a large scarf bow and chose one of her pastel colored embroidered table cloths as a dress. It looked stunning on model Pia Cecilie/Team Models as the brilliant photographer Eivind Røhne captured on our photo shoot in Fredrikstad.

20140605 MbM 647The Lattice Back Jacket is currently being test knitted in my Ravelry group and the English pattern will be released on its completion. One knitter has chosen to add a zip instead of buttons to make it less vintage looking, while another has chosen to knit the hem in a contrast color. I cannot wait to see the finished jackets and with the incredible knitting speed a few are sporting it will not be long!

Share

Made By Me Magazine 2/2014

DSC_2035Our Jugend Love series is released. This has been a magnificent co-operation between Makeløs/Remarkable Re-design stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik and myself together with shoe designer Monica Stålvang and jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord for the Norwegian crafts magazine Made By Me. Editor Mary-Ann Astrup skillfully selected the rest of the team essential for the photo shoot at the Bjørnulfgården in Fredrikstad: Brilliant Photographer Eivind Røhne, stunning Model Pia Cecilie/Team Models and talented Make-up & Hair Stylist Janne Skarpeid Hermansen. In addition Kristin had asked her beautiful daughter Elise and handsome friend Adrian Bjørk to model some of her re-design pieces. Kristin’s preference of the Jugend period, especially its elaborate hand-made textiles, was the starting point, and fitted well with the intricate stitch patterns I favor. Truly remarkable is the way she drapes an embroidered table cloth into a skirt or dress or poncho, and accessorize it with contrasting fabrics preferably in bright clear colors. I had two designs I had already started that fitted well into this series: Icelandic Jacket and Cable Round Sweater, in addition I created two new ones: Lattice Back Jacket and Lyre Bolero. The article introduction actually begins four pages earlier with an interview of Kristin covering four pages, and then in these pages; four of her re-designed outfits.

DSC_2037Curtains, bell pulls, or a series of table clothes like these to the left; where one is made for the piano keys and the other for the piano itself. The latter one is skilfully used as a skirt. We occupied the stair case all day – thankfully it was not too busy – and were fortunate enough to borrow the keeper’s office as a changing and storage room to fill with Kristin’s suitcases and bags.

DSC_2038My Cable Round Sweater has interlocking cables framed by a rib in the side. The ribbing makes the straight sweater pull in and appear fitted. With a crew neck and a double stockinette band, I felt it need a long cowl you can wear twice around your neck. It is knitted in Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Pelt wool by Hifa in a divine melange light denim color using a 3.5 mm/US 4. Styled with a masculine white shirt and trousers with a studded jugend motif. As a contrast an orange chiffon scarf, and stunning cuff links by Siri Berrefjord were added to the outfit. The to-die-for Carmen Boots in petrol are by Monica Stålvang. Both designers are briefly presented with a photograph on the page. Notice that Adrian is wearing bell pulls as braces. I will release the English pattern after a test knit in my Ravelry Group, date to be confirmed. I am delighted to share that this sweater has made it to the blogsphere; Knitigating Circumstances by Kelly Dawn see her post: Pattern Radar August 2014.

DSC_2039The Lattice Back Jacket worn over a beautiful dress; is actually a large table cloth pinned together with the fringes making a stunning back drop. Meters and meters of tulle tied into a bow around the neck, adds glamor to the outfit. Adorning the front and the sleeves is a series of small cables, while the back has a large intricate cable panel. Like a vintage jacket it is very fitted, and the body pieces are knitted flat while the sleeves are knitted in the round in a gorgeous melange purple in Ask-Hifa 2 using a 3 mm/US 2.5. The English pattern will be released after the test knit, which has just started in my group on Ravelry, is completed. Next is the Lyre Bolero with its accompanying cummerbund, which also can be used as a cowl worn twice around the neck according to Kristin. The bolero is cropped and the body is knitted flat in pieces, while the sleeves are knitted in the round in the bouncy Embla-Hifa 3 using a 4 mm/US 6 needle. I made the cummerbund to add length to the bolero, which I imagined to worn with a beautiful skirt like this made of a table cloth with a black tulle petticoat beneath. The bolero is closed with magnificent jugend brooches from Siri Berrefjord. I will release the English pattern after a test knit, date to be confirmed.

DSC_2040

Last but not least is my Icelandic Jacket worn with a table cloth as a skirt, a tulle petticoat and gorgeous green Bettina Boots by Monica Stålvang. It is knitted in Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace in Juniper with cuffs in Rowan Felted Tweed and Rowan Fine Tweed, the latter is also used in the back panel and cowl, all using a 3 mm/US 2.5 needle. The sleeves are knitted in the round while the remaining 3 panels are knitted flat. The cowl is identical to the back panel just longer. Kristin also demonstrated how to use the cowl as a belt, merely by using a shawl pin to adjust it to the waist measurement. Only one bespoke button by Siri Berrefjord made it to the photoshoot (due to slow mail service), but you can see it with the planned three on the pattern page. I plan to have the Icelandic Jacket test knit in October after the Conic Coat, then released in English.

DSC_2034My Lattice Back Jacket also feature on the contents page, where editor Mary-Ann Astrup writes under the heading:  “Boundless Creative Enthusiasm” referring to stylist and re-designer Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik: “You can also see some of her gorgeous outfits, composed around old embroidered table cloths, bell pulls and curtains. In combination with new beautiful cable knits from Linda Marveng, the unity becomes sensational.” The magazine is available from newsagents like Narvesen and selected supermarkets or online here: Familiens lille butikk.

It was an amazing photo shoot and co-operation, which we have decided to do again. In the mean time, I am already working on the next series of designs for Made By Me with Monica Stålvang and a dress designer this time. More to follow.

Share