Ataraxia – A Recap

@ Laura Morsman

I have just uploaded the Norwegian pattern to Ataraxia to Ravelry and thought it was time for a recap. The design began as a submission to the Winter 2018 issue of Pom Pom Quarterly with guest editor Norah Gaughan – the cable expert – whom I had the pleasure of meeting at Strik Bornholm in Denmark back in 2014. The Pom Pom Quarterly magazine was founded by two of my former Loop colleagues: Meghan Fernandes and Lydia Gluck. The Ataraxia sample is knitted in the stunning The Copper Corgi Fiber Studio, Jones Street Worsted using 4 mm/US 6 and 3.5 mm/US 4 needles. The model  has a 86 cm/34″ bust, stands 165 cm/5.5″ tall and is wearing a size 2 with 97 cm/38.25″ bust. The cardigan is available in 5 sizes with a finished bust measurement of 91 to 132.5 cm/35.75 to 52.25″. See more of the photos here: Ataraxia in Pom Pom Quarterly Winter 2018.

The gorgeous sample photographed is not the one I knitted in SweetGeorgia Yarns Mohair Silk DK in Pumpkin, as you will see from the photo Michael took of me above. The wonderful orange colour did not fit in with the other designs and a second sample had to be knitted up quickly in time for the photoshoot.

Before I finished the jacket I sent the knitted swatch – showing off the different stitch patterns – to photographer/jewellery maker/designer Siri Berrefjord and ordered 9 bespoke small buttons with a diameter of 18 millimeters/0.7″ to match the colour. Above you see the stunning buttons and one of the photos that Siri took. See more of them here: Ataraxia Buttons by Siri Berrefjord.

The rights to the pattern came back to me a year later in November 2019 and I asked Pom Pom Quarterly if I could borrow their sample too, so that I could photograph them both. Yes, I could before I returned it. Eivind Røhne photographed both worn by Olivia Lindtein, with make-up & hair by Erica Poppe and jewellery by Kaja Gjedebo Design at Mortensrud Church in Oslo in November 2019.

Ataraxia is named after one of Caroline Norton’s poems, to give you a sense of calm, sheltering you from whatever storms you bravely weather. She was known for her drive to establish basic legal rights for women. The long jacket’s fitted shape is achieved through a careful arrangement of vertical texture panels and I-cord highlights. Finished with a tucked asymmetrical peoplum. Designed with a mythic shield maiden in mind, not unlike Caroline Norton.

Ataraxia is knitted flat, in pieces, from bottom up, and seamed. The asymmetric lower body has extra width in each side that will be bound off before the tuck is made. Waist shaping is worked at the sides and the shoulders are shaped using short-rows. The collar is picked up and completed using an I-cord bind off.

@ Laura Morsman

Above is a detailed photo taken by Laura Morsman for the Pom Pom Quarterly magazine. Both the English and the Norwegian pattern is now available in my Ravelry Stores. You will also soon find the Norwegian version in addition to the English on Lovecrafts too.

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Senna Buttons By Siri Berrefjord

Easter is nearly here and with spring colours appearing around us, I wanted to share these bright summery colours. The light turquoise swatch knitted in the hand dyed divine Neighborhood Fiber Co. Organic Studio Worsted in Woodberry using a 4 mm/US 6 needle, shows off the cable on my Senna swatch as well as Siri Berrefjord’s handmade buttons. Yes, Siri is also a trained photographer in addition to being a jewellery maker and a designer, especially of redesign clothes. I sent this swatch to Siri and ordered 11 bespoke small buttons with a diameter of 20 millimeters/0.78″ to match the colour. Of course, Siri took a number of stunning photos you see here too! The cardigan was designed as an individual pattern for my Ravelry and LoveCrafts. Senna is a botanical name of Arabic origin meaning brightness and suited this long oversized cardigan with a deep v-neck and A-line shaping.

The button design is based on the silver brooches used for the traditional folk costume, called “bunad” in Norwegian. Each button is moulded in plastic then painted with several layers. Siri suggested instead of using white at the top – it would look like toothpaste – a thin layer of turquoise-white on the pattern, with a bit of see-through ice blue at the back. As always she was spot on. The luxurious Neighborhood Fiber Co. Organic Studio Worsted is made of 100% Merino wool with 183 meters/200 yards on each 113 gram skein  and was kindly sponsored by the company.

I am so impressed by the composition of the photos, Siri is always making sure the background matches or contrasts the object in the photograph. Working with Siri, is such a fun and successful collaboration. Take a look at these previous designs, if you need any more proof: Helka, Gyda, Icelandic Jacket, Ena and Ataraxia.

The Senna cardigan with the matching Seneka are available in both English and Norwegian from my Ravelry Store and LoveCrafts.

You will find a selection of Siri’s buttons available in her shop on Epla here: Siris Skattkammer and more divine photos on her website: Fredenshavn.

I wish you all a Happy Easter & Knitting! Stay safe and well!

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Photoshoot at Mortensrud Church November 2020: Senna & Seneka

Next out in the series of photos from our photoshoot at Mortensrud Church in Oslo, back in November 2020, is the Senna & Seneka that can be worn as a set. Both are knitted by yours truly in the divine hand dyed Neighborhood Fiber Co. Organic Studio Worsted. The shade Woodberry looked stunning on model Olivia Lindtein wearing both the jacket and the skirt, which can also be worn as a poncho or maxi hood! The bespoke buttons on Senna are hand made by Siri Berrefjord. Her hair & make-up is by Sissel Fylling, the jewellery is borrowed from Kaja Gjedebo Design and brilliant photographer Eivind Røhne captured it all! Both patterns will be released in English and Norwegian in my Ravelry Store on Thursday March 4 and a few days later they will also be available on LoveCrafts.

I found an old silk scarf from Jaeger which I love which matched the turquoise colour perfectly. That is also why I chose to style the garments with a camel coloured top and trousers, visible in some of these photos. Sissel suggested to add the scarf to Olivia’s hair for a more trendy look. It was a brilliant idea, in my opinion. Above is the Seneka skirt, which is a-line shaped and has boot laces inserted in the waistband for a more comfortable fit.

Seneka, a nickname for Senna meaning brightness in Arabic. This is an A-line skirt with an elaborate cabled center that ends in a waistband; knitted like a hem in one piece with boot laces placed inside. Seneka is knitted in the divine hand dyed Neighborhood Fiber Co. Organic Studio Worsted and can be worn as a skirt or a poncho or a maxi hood – all together with the matching Senna cardigan.

Senna is a botanical name of Arabic origin meaning brightness, and suited this long oversized cardigan with a deep v-neck and A-line shaping. Elaborate cables cover the center back, while only one single cable adornseach front and sleeve. A wavy tuck introduces the cables from the check rib bottom. Senna is knitted in the divine Neighborhood Fiber Co. Organic Studio Worsted with side pockets worked together with the front. Bespoke buttons act like small gems and highlight the beautiful hand dyed shade. Wear Senna with the matching Seneka; as a skirt or a poncho or a maxi hood.

Both garments are worked with a 4 mm/US 6 needle with a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch measuring 10 cm/4″ square. I have graded them in sizes XS to 5XL. Olivia is wearing size S; Seneka with + 11 cm/4.25” ease and Senna with + 27 cm/10.75” ease. She stands 5’6″ tall.

The skirt Seneka is knitted in pieces and seamed. If you want to adjust the length of the skirt, remove up to 8 cm/3.25″ or add an extra length before shaping the hip. The waist band is worked like a hem, with boot laces laid inside it before it is closed.

The Senna cardigan is knitted in pieces and seamed. The second part of the v-neck decreases on the fronts moves to the opposite side of the cable in order for the cable to continue to the shoulder.

The two vertical side pockets are worked at the same time as the front with extra stitches for the pocket band, with the lining attached horizontally at the bottom and top of the pocket.

All parts on Senna have a seam-edge in garter stitch, that stops on the pocket and then resumes to the armhole.

Here is the last photo in the series showing the Seneka worn as a poncho over the Senna jacket, seen from the back. All these photos are taken upstairs in the church by a large window, illuminating the scene. I love this set on Olivia! I am ever so grateful for my amazing team! Thank you!

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Happy New Year! Welcome 2021!

First I want to say “Takk for det gamle”/Thank you for the old one, as we say to each other when the new year approaches in Norway! It is a good custom, in my opinion to thank friends and family for making the year richer, and so much better. So thank you for following me this last year, and I wish you a happy and healthy new year! I hope it will be a peaceful year with the Corona virus under control. I also hope that it will be a year that bring you all lots of happiness and shared pleasures!

Above are photos of the swatch to my new Senna oversized cardigan photographed by Siri Berrefjord who made these stunning bespoke buttons on my request. The button design is based on the silver brooches used for the traditional folk costume, called “bunad” in Norwegian. Each button is moulded in plastic then painted with several layers. They are perfect on the cardigan knitted in the divine Neighborhood Fiber Co. Organic Studio Worsted yarn in the hand dyed shade Woodberry using a 4 mm/US 6 needle.

I wanted to share these photos as the summery colour and the jewellery like buttons symbolise hope of both better and lighter days to come!

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Ataraxia in Familien Vårstrikk 2020

The special magazine Vårstrikk/Spring Knits published by Familien is now for sale and I am so thrilled to have my Ataraxia pattern among all the lovely patterns. On the cover is Apple Blossom Sweater designed by Kari Hestnes. Ataraxia, one of the pages from the magazines is show below, was designed for Pom Pom Quarterly Issue 27 Winter 2018 and the sample I knitted was in SweetGeorgia Yarns Mohair Silk DK in the divine shade of Pumpkin. While the sample Pom Pom had knitted up to fit better with the remaining collection in the magazine in The Copper Corgi Fiber Studio, Jones Street Worsted in Goldenrod, which I borrowed for the photoshoot and then returned. One of these photos of the gorgeous Olivia Lindtein, with make-up & hair by Erica Poppe and jewellery by Kaja Gjedebo Design was brilliantly taken by Eivind Røhne at Mortensrud Church in Oslo in November last year.

Ataraxia is named after one of Caroline Norton’s poems, to give you a sense of calm, sheltering you from whatever storms you bravely weather. She was known for her drive to establish basic legal rights for women. The long jacket’s fitted shape is achieved through a careful arrangement of vertical texture panels and I-cord highlights. Finished with a tucked asymmetrical peoplum. Designed with a mythic shield maiden in mind, not unlike Caroline Norton.Olivia is wearing Ataraxia in size S with + 14 cm/5.5″ ease and stands 167 cm/5’6″ tall. I have graded the jacket from size XS to 2XL with a bust circumference of 91 to 132.5 cm/35.75 to 52.25″. Both samples are knitted using 4 mm/US 6 needles and a gauge of 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch measuring 10 cm/4″ square.

The handmade jewellery buttons on the pumpin colored sample are made by Siri Berrefjord in Norway, see www.fredenshavn.no and can be ordered from siri@fredenshavn.no. You can see them photographed by Siri herself above, and several more photos in this blogpost: Ataraxia Buttons by Siri Berrefjord.

Olivia is wearing Ataraxia in size S with + 14 cm/5.5″ ease and stands 167 cm/5’6″ tall. I have graded the jacket from size XS to 2XL with a bust circumference of 91 to 132.5 cm/35.75 to 52.25″.  Both samples are knitted using 4 mm/US 6 needles and a gauge of 21 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch measuring 10 cm/4″ square.

The special issue Familien Vårstrikk is available at selected news agents and super markets. But it can also be ordered in Norway by sms: SMÅ20 to 2205. If you are in Norway you can buy a digital version for iPad, see www.klikk.no. If you live abroad you can order the Norwegian special magazine by e-mailing kari.bachke@egmont.com and then transfer payment into their bank account.

The English pattern is available in my Ravelry store and on Love Crafts.

In Norway we are in lock down due to the Coronavirus to stop the spread. I hope all of you will stay well and keep safe!

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Ataraxia Buttons by Siri Berrefjord

Christmas is coming very soon and we have a blanket of snow covering the ground here in Ørje, so I thought showing you some bright summery colours would be good. The orange swatch (read: knitting speak for tiny sample) knitted in the gorgeous SweetGeorgia Yarns Mohair Silk DK in Pumpkin using 3.5 mm/US 4 needles and 4 mm/US 6 needles, shows off the different stitch patterns on my Ataraxia swatch as well as Siri Berrefjord’s handmade buttons. Yes, Siri is also a trained photographer in addition to being a jewellery maker and a designer, especially of redesign clothes. I sent this swatch to Siri and ordered 9 bespoke small buttons with a diameter of 18 millimeters/0.7″ to match the colour by the beginning of July. Of course, Siri took a number of stunning photos you see here too! Ataraxia was a commission for a the Pom Pom Quarterly 27 Winter 2018 issue with guest editor Norah Gaughan. I made a jacket for the modern warrior women, since the brief stated that “Our muse is a modern woman warrior with a feminine edge. Mix sweet with strong. The Victorian era is the seed of inspiration, but anachronism is welcome”.

 The button design is based on the silver brooches used for the traditional folk costume, called “bunad” in Norwegian. Each button is moulded in plastic then painted with several layers. Siri suggested to use orange at the top, then a lighter colour below and with gold with a bit of brown at the base. As always she was spot on. The luxurious SweetGeorgia Yarns Mohair Silk DK is made of  90% superwash Merino, 5% Superkid Mohair, 5% silk with 200 meters/218 yards per 100 gram with a fantastic stitch definition and lustre to it.

As always I am impressed by the composition of the photos, making sure the background matches or contrasts the object in the photograph. Working with Siri, is such a fun and successful collaboration. Take a look at these previous designs, if you need any more proof: Helka, Gyda, Icelandic Jacket and Ena.

My sample was not included of the magazine simply because the wonderful orange colour did not fit in with the other designs and a second sample had to be knitted up quickly in time for the photoshoot. The second sample for Pom Pom Quarterly 27 Winter 2018 is knitted in The Copper Corgi Fiber Studio, Jones Street Worsted – available at Etsy – made of 60% Merino wool, 30% Alpaca, 10% silk with 192 meters/210 yards per 113 gram skein in the shade Goldenrod. While you can see the  photos of me wearing the orange sample here: Ataraxia Again. I so enjoyed seeing the two different versions of my Ataraxia. Do not miss this amazing issue of Pom Pom Quarterly.

You will find a selection of Siri’s buttons available in her shop on Epla here: Siris Skattkammer and more divine photos on her website: Fredenshavn.

I will end with Felicia Lo’s ending words from the SweetGeorgia Yarns Podcast: Enjoy colour!

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Ena Buttons by Siri Berrefjord

Now, a study of the details, the bespoke buttons hand-made by Siri Berrefjord especially for my new design Ena. I ordered 12 buttons in the size small with a diameter of 18 millimeters/0.7″ in an orange-brown colour, by e-mail. I sent Siri my swatch – while I was knitting the sample – so that she could match the colour and take some wonderful photos. Siri is a trained photographer, as well as a jewellery designer, clothes designer and now also an co-author, see her Norwegian book: Redesign. Ena, Celtic for  fiery – perfect for both the colour and for the amount of cables – is knitted in the divine Acadia by The Fibre Co. in the shade Orange Storm. I made the swatch to check my gauge but also to find a spine for the back and checked whether I wanted a plain column of rib or a twisted stitch. Just seeing the knitted swatch is such a detail is like yarn porn. And, yes, there is such a thing. We knitters know all about this.

I specified that I wanted orange buttons with brown in them. Siri made the perfect match as you can see. Each button is like a piece of jewellery with immaculate texture to it. The design is based on the silver broches for the traditional folk costume, called “bunad” in Norwegian. They are moulded in plastic then painted with several layers.

As always I am impressed by the composition of the photos, making sure the background matches or contrasts the object in the photograph. It is such a fun and successful collaboration. Take a look at these previous designs: Helka, Gyda and Icelandic Jacket.

The cables I chose for Ena, are by Norah Gaughan and found in her brilliant Knitted Cable Sourcebook. The woven cables are ideal for the Acadia yarn, made of 60% merino wool, 20% alpaca, 20% silk with 133 meters/145 yards on each 50 gram skein and it is a luxury to both knit and to wear.You will find a selection of Siri’s buttons available in her shop on Epla here: Siris Skattkammer and more divine photos on her website: Fredenshavn. The finished sample of Ena was professionally photographed by Eivind Røhne at Bøler Church and you can see the photos in my blogpost: Photoshoot at Bøler Church; Ena. The English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group, beginning on March 12th, before it is released at the end of April.

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Photoshoot at Bøler Church: Ena

The next set of photos from our shoot is of Ena, knitted in The Fibre Company’s Acadia, beautifully worn by Emma Ross leaning towards the rusty cor-ten wall panel with Bøler Kirke/Church carved into it. Photographer Eivind Røhne who captured these brilliant shoots made sure to position Em so that the two letters “Bø” as in “Boo!” was visible at all times. Yes, we do have a lot of fun! Hair & makeup stylist Sissel Fylling made sure that Em’s hair was not covering up the collar. On Em’s finger is one of Kaja Gjedebo Design’s statement rings in gold-plated silver.

Ena is Celtic for fiery. As you need to be passionate about cables to make this jacket. The woven cables lean towards the left and the right hence the spine has been accentuated with a twisted stitch at the center back and along front opening. Ribbing in the sides make the jacket appear casually fitted. The collar in rib can be worn open or closed and folded over. Ena is knitted in the rustic Acadia with silk noil from The Fibre Company.

The bespoke buttons are made by Siri Berrefjord in a brown orange colour she matched to my knitted swatch, ideal for this dressy jacket I styled with a pair of wide silk trousers in navy. The handmade buttons are moulded in plastic after old traditional national costume/bunad silver. You can look forward to seeing her stunning photos later. Siri is also a photographer so even the yarn and stitch definition can then be studied in detail!

The cable I chose is from Norah Gaughan’s brilliant Knitted Cable Sourcebook, so no surprise there, as I have found a lot of inspiration in it. The Acadia yarn, made of 60% merino wool, 20% alpaca, 20% silk with 133 meters/145 yards on each 50 gram skein and it is a luxury to both knit and to wear. I used a 4 mm/US 6 needle with a 21 stitches and 30 rows  in Stocking stitch measuring 10 cm/4″ square gauge. The jacket is made in pieces and seamed. The collar is picked up and knitted before the buttonband. The last buttonhole is on collar before fold over.

Em is wearing size S with a bust circumference of 92 cm/36.25″, worn with 6 cm/2.25″ positive ease. The cardigan is graded in sizes XS to 2XL with a bust circumference of 84 to 124 cm/33 to 48.75″. The English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group, beginning on March 12th, before it is released at the end of April.

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Designers Christmas Market at DOGA

dscn0673“Designernes eget julemarked”/The Designers’ Own Christmas Market was first organised in Oslo in December 1999, by a small creative group of friends who knew many great designers and makers. Since 2004 it has been held in the large and spacious premises of DOGA, short for the Norwegian Centre for Design and Architecture, in the city center. It attracts thousands of people each year, and is also getting more International every year. You will find designers offering: jewellery, paper ware, ceramics, cosmetics, books, leather products, clothing, knitwear, toys, wood work and textiles. There is a small entrance fee, but lots of bargains to be had since some of designers have sample sales or offer special discounts. This year I knew that both Siri Berrefjord – with her “bunadsplast”/National Costume plastic – and Cecilie Telle – with her felted garments and bags – would be present. Siri is a photographer, jewellery designer as well as re-designing clothes and had a stand at the market. Notice the brooch she is wearing on her inherited dress made in the same fabric used for one of the National costume aprons. Siri was also wearing a stunning brooch in her hair. Take a look at the poster behind her and you get the idea. She has made a number of stunning buttons for me, and had brought a number for sale, check out the left side of her table. You will find her shop called Siris skattkammer/Siri’s treasure trove at epla.no. Do also check out her webpage: Fredenshavn.no.

dscn0671Cecilie Telle is Norwegian who lives in London with her Japanese husband and two daughters (you can spot Edie in the photo above). We first met working at the yarn shop Loop in Islington, North London, in 2005. Cecilie teaches handcraft at schools, holds knitting workshops and designs, mainly felted items. At her busy stall she sold popular scarfs, ponchos and bags. Above you can see a selection of what she had brought with her. There was also a queue of friends who stopped by to say hello, myself included. Cecilie sells her designs at Comme de Garcons’ flagship store in London; Couverture, London; Crafts Council, London; Contemporary Applied Arts, London; Norway Designs, Oslo and Takashimaya in New York as well as online at The Wolery. Here is how she presents the shop: “The Wolery is a family run shop, based in an old handbag factory in London. Our shop is a fusion between Japanese and Norwegian cultures which also happens to be the background of our family.” Cecilie’s house and studio are amazing just like her designs, so check out her blog and store for inspiration.

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Makeløs Festaften in Fredrikstad

_dsc2626-1920x1200_72Makeløs/Remarkable re-design stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik was in charge of the catwalk with a mix of new & old handcraft designs and jewellery to make numerous unique as well as colourful inspirational outfits, at the party night on the Strikkefestival/Knitting festival in Fredrikstad. Kristin combines new & old knitwear with embroidered table cloths, bell pulls and lengths of tulle fabric. With knitwear from Tone Loeng, Vanja Blix Langsrud, Sidsel Høivik, Kristin Holte, Nina Granlund Sæther, Annemor Sundbø and myself, together with jewellery from Siri Berrefjord and Gry Marie Grindbakken, in addition to a co-operation with local hairdressers Adam og Eva, Kristin made outfits that takes your breath away. The logistics with 14 models, 5 dressers to aid the models, a violinist to open the show, a sound technician and 25 outfits with accessories down to shoes, takes a lot of time, space (both head space and literal space to hang all the outfits) plus energy. Thankfully Kristin seems to have an endless supply of energy, unlike most people I know.

_dsc2628-1920x1200_72First out is the Setesdal Lovely outfit with brooches by Siri Berrefjord and bridal crown by Gry Marie Grindbakken. The coat has embroidered cuffs and neck and is worn with hand made lace cuffs & lace collar, in addition to layers of tulle skirts and fabric for a belt. All these crisp photos are taken by Geir Arnesen, and I am ever so grateful to be allowed to use them here. Thank you, Geir!

_dsc2648-1920x1200_72Here is another bridal crown, this one is by Kristin Holte and so is the knitted jacket. The brooches are by Siri Berrefjord. We enjoyed the colourful explosion to our senses, and I really wanted a pair of opera binoculars to take in more of the details. But since I stayed over with Kristin and her family I was lucky to have a sneak peek the day before.

_dsc2680-1920x1200_72This dress is part of Kristin Holte’s wedding outfit, usually worn with the cardigan and crown above. All the knitted flowers makes it heavy but also so sculptural.

_dsc2670-1920x1200_72My Lattice Back Jacket worn over one of Kristin’s many beautiful table cloths. Siri was present and pinned on her own brooches as she saw fit, just as Kristin had suggested.

_dsc2713-1920x1200_72This kofte is by Vanja Blix Langsrud, aka vanjastrikk, a new design called Blanda Drops. It is worn by Elise, Kristin’s daughter and now experienced model with a professional attitude.

_dsc2779-1920x1200_72Last but not least is the winner of the competition for the Fredrikstad Genseren 2017 by Marianne Solbrække, styled as only Kristin knows how to with layers of tulle skirts in matching colours. The catwalk went too quickly for us knitters who wanted more, but it was the highlight of the party evening that began with an introduction by the knitting organisers (read: knitting motors), music by a band, a buffet with delcious finger food, the mayor announcing the winner of the Fredrikstad pullover contest, chatting and not to forget knitting! I was not giving my knitting enough attention, so I ended up unraveling what I had done. I was fortunate to catch a lift with designer Sidsel Høivik who live close to me. Hence the weekend ended just as it had began with talk about knitting.

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