Icelandic Jacket Pattern Released

Icelandic Jacket COVERStunning model Pia Cecilie/Team Models, with hair & make up by Janne Skarpeid Hermansen, is wearing vintage styled clothing by Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik of Makeløs/Remarkable, Bettina ankle boots by Monica Stålvang, and my Icelandic Jacket, all brilliantly captured by Eivind Røhne at Bjørnulfgården in Fredrikstad. The pattern was first published in Norwegian in our Jugend Love series in Made by Me in the autumn of 2014. The English pattern has been test knitted and is now available in my Ravelry Store. Here is my introduction to the pattern: Inspired by Iceland’s wild nature, I have designed an a-line jacket with a cable spine panel in fine tweed on the back, framed by stockinette stitch in a lush silk yarn mixture with tucks in a matching tweed on the cuffs. To show off the cable panel on the front, I made it into a cowl.

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL)                                                                                                                    Cowl: One size

Finished Measurements:                                                                                                           Bust: 90 (96, 104, 114, 124) cm/35.5 (37.75, 41, 45, 48.75)”                                                   Hip: 110 (116, 124, 134, 144) cm/43.25 (45.75, 48.75, 52.75, 56.75)”                                 Length: 70 (71, 72, 73, 74) cm/27.5 (28, 28.25, 28.75, 29.25)”                                                 Sleeve length excluding cuff: 45 (45, 46, 46, 47) cm/17.75 (17.75, 18, 18, 18.5)”                       Cuff length: 8 cm/3.25″                                                                                                                  Cowl: Width: 15 cm/6″ Length: 102 cm/40.25″

Yarns:                                                                                                                                               Col 1: Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace 2/18 in Juniper (50% merino, 50% tussah silk, 4608 m/5040 yds, 454 g/1lb): 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) cone or 2 (2, 2, 2, 2) spools of 100 g; 1015 (1074, 1136, 1257, 1359) m/1110 (1175, 1375, 1486) yds.                           http://www.jaggeryarn.com/wholesale-yarn-lines/zephyr-wool-silk.php                              Col 2: Rowan Yarns, Felted Tweed DK in Watery 152 (50% merino, 25% alpaca, 25% viscose, 50 g, 175 m/191 yds): 1 (1, 1, 1, 1) ball; 70 (90, 110, 130, 150) m/77 (98, 120, 142, 164) yds.  http://www.knitrowan.com/yarns/felted-tweed-dk                                               Col 3: Rowan Yarns, Rowan Fine Tweed in Wensley 371 (100% wool, 90 m/98 yds, 25 g): 3 (3, 3, 4, 4) balls; 250 (260, 270, 280, 290) m/273 (284, 295, 306, 317) yds. http://www.knitrowan.com/yarns/rowan-fine-tweed                                                            Cowl: Col 3: 4 balls; 342 m/374 yds. 

Alternative yarns:                                                                                                                       Col 1: Garnstudio, Drops Lace (70% alpaca, 30% silk, 100 g, 800 m/875 yds) http://www.garnstudio.com/lang/us/yarn.php?id=100                                                            Col 2: Rauma, Puno Petit Alpakka (56% alpaca, 10% merino, 34% polyamide, 50 g, 175 m/191 yds)                                               http://www.raumaull.no/produkter/garn/alpakka/puno-petit-alpakka                                    Col 3: Pickles, Merino Tweed (100% wool, 100 g, 380 m/415 yds) http://shop.pickles.no/en/products/yarn/pickles-merino-tweed/

Needles:                                                                                                                                          3 mm/US 2.5 circular needle (40 cm/16″)                                                                                         3 mm/US 2.5 circular needle (60 cm/24″)                                                                                       2 sets of 3 mm/US 2.5 circular needle (80 cm/32″)                                                               Adjust needle to match gauge. 

Notions: 3 buttons (17 mm/28L, 0.70″) and 3 sets of snap fasteners to attach on the back. Special ordered buttons on sample are made by Siri Berrefjord, see http://epla.no/shops/sirisskattkammer/                                                                                         8 Stitch markers, cable needle, stitch holders and yarn needle.

Gauge:                                                                                                                                               30 sts and 32 rnds using Col 1 in st st after blocking measures 10 cm/4″.
                                   25 sts and 16 rows; 1 cable pattern using Col 3 measures 6 cm/2.25″.                                     20 sts and 30 rnds using Col 2 in st st measures 10 cm/4″.

Notes:                                                                                                                                             The body is knitted in three panels; Left Panel, Right Panel and Spine Panel. Each side panel is sewn to the Spine Panel and has an interfacing front band which is knitted simultaneously and then folded back. The bottom hem on the side panels is knitted into place. The sleeves with their tuck cuffs are knitted in the round to the armhole and then worked back and forth in rows. The cowl is identical to the Spine Panel, just longer and joined at the short ends.

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Made By Me Magazine 2/2014

DSC_2035Our Jugend Love series is released. This has been a magnificent co-operation between Makeløs/Remarkable Re-design stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik and myself together with shoe designer Monica Stålvang and jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord for the Norwegian crafts magazine Made By Me. Editor Mary-Ann Astrup skillfully selected the rest of the team essential for the photo shoot at the Bjørnulfgården in Fredrikstad: Brilliant Photographer Eivind Røhne, stunning Model Pia Cecilie/Team Models and talented Make-up & Hair Stylist Janne Skarpeid Hermansen. In addition Kristin had asked her beautiful daughter Elise and handsome friend Adrian Bjørk to model some of her re-design pieces. Kristin’s preference of the Jugend period, especially its elaborate hand-made textiles, was the starting point, and fitted well with the intricate stitch patterns I favor. Truly remarkable is the way she drapes an embroidered table cloth into a skirt or dress or poncho, and accessorize it with contrasting fabrics preferably in bright clear colors. I had two designs I had already started that fitted well into this series: Icelandic Jacket and Cable Round Sweater, in addition I created two new ones: Lattice Back Jacket and Lyre Bolero. The article introduction actually begins four pages earlier with an interview of Kristin covering four pages, and then in these pages; four of her re-designed outfits.

DSC_2037Curtains, bell pulls, or a series of table clothes like these to the left; where one is made for the piano keys and the other for the piano itself. The latter one is skilfully used as a skirt. We occupied the stair case all day – thankfully it was not too busy – and were fortunate enough to borrow the keeper’s office as a changing and storage room to fill with Kristin’s suitcases and bags.

DSC_2038My Cable Round Sweater has interlocking cables framed by a rib in the side. The ribbing makes the straight sweater pull in and appear fitted. With a crew neck and a double stockinette band, I felt it need a long cowl you can wear twice around your neck. It is knitted in Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Pelt wool by Hifa in a divine melange light denim color using a 3.5 mm/US 4. Styled with a masculine white shirt and trousers with a studded jugend motif. As a contrast an orange chiffon scarf, and stunning cuff links by Siri Berrefjord were added to the outfit. The to-die-for Carmen Boots in petrol are by Monica Stålvang. Both designers are briefly presented with a photograph on the page. Notice that Adrian is wearing bell pulls as braces. I will release the English pattern after a test knit in my Ravelry Group, date to be confirmed. I am delighted to share that this sweater has made it to the blogsphere; Knitigating Circumstances by Kelly Dawn see her post: Pattern Radar August 2014.

DSC_2039The Lattice Back Jacket worn over a beautiful dress; is actually a large table cloth pinned together with the fringes making a stunning back drop. Meters and meters of tulle tied into a bow around the neck, adds glamor to the outfit. Adorning the front and the sleeves is a series of small cables, while the back has a large intricate cable panel. Like a vintage jacket it is very fitted, and the body pieces are knitted flat while the sleeves are knitted in the round in a gorgeous melange purple in Ask-Hifa 2 using a 3 mm/US 2.5. The English pattern will be released after the test knit, which has just started in my group on Ravelry, is completed. Next is the Lyre Bolero with its accompanying cummerbund, which also can be used as a cowl worn twice around the neck according to Kristin. The bolero is cropped and the body is knitted flat in pieces, while the sleeves are knitted in the round in the bouncy Embla-Hifa 3 using a 4 mm/US 6 needle. I made the cummerbund to add length to the bolero, which I imagined to worn with a beautiful skirt like this made of a table cloth with a black tulle petticoat beneath. The bolero is closed with magnificent jugend brooches from Siri Berrefjord. I will release the English pattern after a test knit, date to be confirmed.

DSC_2040

Last but not least is my Icelandic Jacket worn with a table cloth as a skirt, a tulle petticoat and gorgeous green Bettina Boots by Monica Stålvang. It is knitted in Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace in Juniper with cuffs in Rowan Felted Tweed and Rowan Fine Tweed, the latter is also used in the back panel and cowl, all using a 3 mm/US 2.5 needle. The sleeves are knitted in the round while the remaining 3 panels are knitted flat. The cowl is identical to the back panel just longer. Kristin also demonstrated how to use the cowl as a belt, merely by using a shawl pin to adjust it to the waist measurement. Only one bespoke button by Siri Berrefjord made it to the photoshoot (due to slow mail service), but you can see it with the planned three on the pattern page. I plan to have the Icelandic Jacket test knit in October after the Conic Coat, then released in English.

DSC_2034My Lattice Back Jacket also feature on the contents page, where editor Mary-Ann Astrup writes under the heading:  “Boundless Creative Enthusiasm” referring to stylist and re-designer Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik: “You can also see some of her gorgeous outfits, composed around old embroidered table cloths, bell pulls and curtains. In combination with new beautiful cable knits from Linda Marveng, the unity becomes sensational.” The magazine is available from newsagents like Narvesen and selected supermarkets or online here: Familiens lille butikk.

It was an amazing photo shoot and co-operation, which we have decided to do again. In the mean time, I am already working on the next series of designs for Made By Me with Monica Stålvang and a dress designer this time. More to follow.

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Buttons by Siri Berrefjord

_SBB4025I have for a long time admired Siri Berrefjord’s jewelry, see Siris’ Skattkammer/Treasure Trove, and when I finally met her at a Designerkollektivet event last year, I asked if she could make buttons for my designs. The answer to my delight was positive as long as I did not need 10 identical ones since they are cast from a mold. All that Siri needed was a yarn sample, and an idea of the size I wanted the button to be. I showed her my swatches when a brilliant idea popped into my mind; would she photograph them with her buttons on? Siri is a former professional photographer of antiques and jewelry so she knows exactly how to capture colors and texture, see fredenshavn.no. Here is the unique result of the buttons made to order and the equally stunning photos she has taken. My swatches are of the Icelandic Jacket, a new design I will reveal next week, made in a combination of Jaggerspun Zephyr LaceRowan Felted Tweed and Rowan Fine Tweed to be published in Made by Me on 1st of September. The cuff has tucks in tweed and the cables adorn the back panel and the matching cowl. Notice the layers of color that Siri has applied to the buttons making them a perfect match to the color specks in the three different yarns. They are made in plastic inspired by traditional historic national costume silver and each one is unique.

_SBB4027Now, that I have been spoilt with these magnificent buttons, I am not sure I will be satisfied with a mass produced buttons ever again! Yet another addiction of mine. If you want Siri’s unique buttons for a special garment, you too can order directly from her stating what size, how many and sending her a small yarn sample. Just email: siri@fredenshavn.no

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