Thea Glimsdal Temte, the tailor behind the brand HotNok/Hot Enough was one of the designers at the talk “A Tradition that Inspires” at Designerkollektivet, who I want to present in greater detail. She started the brand in 2006, after working with restoration of 200 year old clothes specializing in folk costumes in co-operation with Norsk Folkemuseum/Norwegian Folk Museum. Hot Nok makes clothes that allows you to move freely without any restrictions, just as the folk costumes did in their time, but with its own visual expression adjusted to modern life. A rock musician from Trondheim who modeled the clothes expressed; “It is just as if the jacket is embracing me!”. In other words clothes that takes care of you, made in mainly felted wool in bright colors with striking small details like a straight seam ending in a small heart. Above is the inspirational photo by Cathrine Dokken of the stunning dress “Hilde” worn by the gorgeous violinist Ragnhild Hemsing, it is also available in green and black, the tulle petticoat is separate and perfect for special occasions. The magnificent clothes are available at Designerkollektivet at Glasmagasinet in Oslo, online at miinto.no or contact Thea directly by e-mail: thea@hotnok.no. Check out how well they fit and be inspired.
Hobby Night at Cappelen Damm
Last year’s Hobby Night at my publishers’ was such a success that it had to be repeated, this time with another set of knitting and crochet book authors presenting their new and upcoming books: Arne & Carlos, Tove Fevang, Cecilie Kaurin & Linn Bryhn Jacobsen and Eline Oftedal. 180 people had signed up for the free event, and looked forward to another fab evening, and an amazing goodie bag – yes, even bigger this year. The Christmas serving was rice porridge, the traditional spicy drink “gløgg”, gingerbread cookies and for those wanting a bit of wine; Arne & Carlos’ own brand for an extra fee. In addition to the generous goodie bag – with several kits and balls of yarns, I will reveal all – we also received two raffle tickets each. Arne & Carlos started the show, and told us about their recent world wide tour as well as their latest book “Strikk fra Setesdal/Knits from Setesdal”, not yet published in English but coming soon, see cappelendamm.
Arne is one of those speakers, he joked that you can just insert a penny and he will keep talking, proven by the fact that the technical support staff had to change the battery of his microphone. Carlos continued and said; “While Arne is having his battery changed, I will do the talking”. They are such a joy to listen to, and no wonder their books are available in 14 languages so far. One of the latest additional languages is Japanese. Not only are their previous clothes designs popular in Japan, but their books are too. You can see their 5 books on the screen behind Carlos in the photo below.
Next on the evening’s agenda was interviews by presenter and former designer Kaja Marie Lereng Kvernbakken, see makaroniblogg, left in the photo above, of all the authors. First out was Tove Fevang, whose latest book published by Cappelen Damm was on crocheting for the kitchen, she is seated third from left. It is only a few days since Tove was last in the newspaper, as the front person of the Amanda Project, knitting & crocheting to aid the premature born babies founded by Amanda’s parents, see amandaprosjektet. Tove’s next crochet book is out next year. Seated next to her is Cecilie Kaurin & Linn Bryhn Jacobsen whose book “Hønsestrikk til folket”/”Chickenknit to the people” is due out in early January, see inside it here: issuu. The concept began in Denmark in the -70s with statements knitted into garments, usually without using any specific patterns, just making it up and the term “chicken” was used because it was the name of the first publisher to publish a book on the topic. It is back in fashion, and became a huge hit when Cecilie Kaurin designed a sweater capturing the Norwegian Rap band Karpe Diem’s latest CD title; “Kors på halsen, Ti Kniver i hjertet, Mor og far i døden”/”Cross your throat, Ten knives in the heart, Mother and father into death”, see a photo of rap duo with sweaters on here: strikk-karpe-diem-genseren. The design request came on twitter fittingly enough, after her daughter wore a sweater decorated with both the twitter and Apple logo on. Here is the free pattern of the Karpe Diem Genser in Norwegian: dalegarn.
Eline Oftedal published her first book in the UK; “Knit Nordic”, available at amazon, and she has translated it into Norwegian herself. The book has recently been published as “Marius, Setesdal, Fana, Voss. Norske strikkemønstre på nye måter/Norwegian knitting patterns in new ways”, see cappelendamm. Kaja asked how she works, and Eline responded that she submits designs to magazines such as the American “Designer Knitting” and British “The Knitter” without knowing whether a design will be accepted or not. The red shrug she is wearing is one design that was accepted by “Designer Knitting”. Here is her blog, with links to downloadable pdf patterns to buy: byeline. Eline’s iPhone cover was one of the kits included in the goodie bag with two balls of Sportsgarn from Viking Garn, the other was Arne & Carlos placemat with two balls of 3 Tråds Strikkegarn from Rauma Ullvarefabrikk, patterns and two balls of lovely alpaca plus the canvas bag from Du Store Alpakka, hardback Tilda diary, pocket book by Vetle Lid Larssen, 10 lovely Christmas cards, stamp with “Homemade” on, plus another handy shopping bag with Cappelen Damm logo on. I could tell by the response that the goodie bags were a hit, just like the filled to the brim raffle price bags were!
After the interview, each author had a selection of items/garments on display and answered questions, while Arne & Carlos seemed to have mainly photo requests to deal with. I had an excellent evening, I had brought my knitting but was busy eating porridge, drinking gløgg, and being captivated by all the authors. I for one, will be back next year…
Milanese Shawl by Gjertrud Louise Tretteteig
I am delighted to show you the beautiful Milanese Shawl knitted by Gjertrud Louise Tretteteig in a divine blue called “Neptun Medium” in the original yarn Wollmeise Lace, see rohrspatzundwollmeise for more exceptional colors. She followed the pattern and blocked it lightly with the result that it became too long, and unraveled the last 10 pattern repeats to make it closer to the size intended. The pattern is close to 3 dimensional when knitting, and to keep the texture I do recommend only steaming and stretching not blocking since the measurements will differ. It is a lovely lace pattern blocked or not, but not one that is easy to memorize. I prefer shawls to be rectangular and with added buttons so that it can be buttoned into a shrug or a vest, if preferred as well as being worn like a large scarf. Below are the photos of the stunning Anna Pfeiffer taken by Kim Müller from my book (available in Norwegian and Finnish) and the single English pdf pattern available at Ravelry here: ravelry. Thank you, Gjertrud Louise!
Karen, blogger of the Sweaty Knitter has also just finished hers and you can read her review in this blog post: marvengs-milanese-shawl-pattern-a-review. She writes: “The Milanese Shawl beautifully showcases Marveng’s skills in designing knitwear. First, in choosing to use the Milanese lace stitch, Marveng selected an interesting truelace stitch (i.e., each row contains a lace pattern). The Milanese lace pattern is a stitch pattern that is both asymmetrical and undulating and results in material that is palpably three dimensional.” I am overwhelmed!
A Tradition that Inspires
Such a perfect way to spend an evening! I was encouraged by Makeløs/Remarkable stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik, see bakketunet, to attend an evening with two small presentations by talented jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord of Fredenshavn and knitwear designer Thea Glimsdal Temte of HotNok/Hot Enough tailored clothing in colorful felt. Their topic was how tradition, folk costumes in particular, had inspired them to design the marvelous items they do. We were a small but dedicated group that had turned up at the Designerkollektivet/Designer Collective at Glasmagasinet in Oslo, accompanied by two fiddle players to transcend us into the right mood, we were seated among rails of discounted clothes by HotNok and discounted jewelry by Siri Berrefjord. The temptations proved too large for some, including my friend Kristin… After two talks both we were all filled with inspiration, and the need to create ourselves. While we chatted and studied all the offers, delicious home made cinnamon swirls, fruit, gingerbread cookies – Christmas is coming – chocolate and drinks were presented to us. The entrance fee ticket resulted in a magnificent draw with the possibility to win a pair of stunning earrings or a mixed bag of felted wool remnants. Two lucky winners went home even happier. I had to ask if Siri had considered making buttons, and to my delight she has already done so and would gladly special make some to order for me, all she needed was a yarn sample. At that point I lost my bearings and my head started spinning with ideas!
First out was Siri who talked about her changing career from a photographer of antiques to a jewelry designer inspired by the very same antiques she used to photograph but with a very modern and trendy touch cast in colorful plastic. Siri transforms the traditional brooches and earrings into playful everyday accessories taking them into the future. See above, photographed by Siri herself, for an example of her brilliance, none are identical to each other of the brooches, as she paints with the different layers of colors on top of each other. Not exactly knowing what the outcome will be, but willing to leave it to chance with a strong gut feeling it will be magnificent. And of course she is right! You will find her jewelry for sale at Designerkollektivet and at her Norwegian online shop here: epla.no or contact her by e-mail: siri@fredenshavn.no.
Then Thea Glimsdal Temte continued and showed us photographs of folk costumes, and talked about how they have inspired her. She is a tailor by trade who has become more relaxed in her approach to design than her education allowed her to be. Felted wool in bright colors is her material, with a good cut, and small playful finishing details like a seam in a contrast color or an edging in a contrast material, see photo above from the Designer Kollektivet. Thea has specialist knowledge on historic textiles used in folk costumes, and is often contacted by the Norsk Folkemuseum/Norwegian Folk Museum who needs her expertise in fabric restoration. In addition to her collections, for sale at Designer Kollektivet and Norwegian online shop: miinto.no or contact: thea@hotnok.no, Thea custom makes dresses. One woman had seen her Huldra Dress – after the seductive forest creature in Scandinavian Folklore with a long tail, see wikipedia – a long cream coloured long A-line dress with buttons at the front and a tail, and wanted one. The customer did not want Thea to make her a new one, but was happy with the photographed one, since she wanted to use it the very next day for ice-skating so bought the very dress with that purpose in mind. Fairytales do come alive in all senses of the word.
Design in Progress: Autumn Symphony
I am working on another A-line jacket in a leaves pattern in a deep red melange in the stunning Ask, a pure Sport/5 ply wool from Hifa using a 3.5 mm/US 4 with 315 m/344 yds per 100 g, see ull. After a bit of consideration I decided to make it a v-neck, and added a double button band in stocking stitch. Only the buttons need to be sewn on, before it is ready to be photographed. Why not make a wide belt to lengthen the jacket, I thought and choose two complementary colors to the red: orange and terra-cotta. The belt needs a certain firmness to hold it shape so I choose a tweed pattern. The jacket would look good with a generous cowl – like they do in my opinion – and another lace pattern was chosen plus the largest contrast color; orange. The cowl is ready, and I have knitted a third of the belt so far. I will show you photos when the Autumn Symphony is ready!
New Design: Nora Sweater
I planned to include this sweater in my knitting book, but it was not finished in time. It was still in parts, so I decided to have another go at it last year, knitting from scratch. I changed the bottom from a rib to a hem and added Missioni inspired square puff sleeves as an option in addition to set in sleeves. The shawl collar and the selected cable pattern remained the same throughout the process. I decided to add tucks around the shawl collar and end with an I-cord cast off, even though it does tighten it more than an ordinary cast off would do. The slightly fitted sweater is knitted in Semilla Fino by BC Garn, an ecological wool in a divine taupe melange color using a 3 mm/US 2.5 knitting needles, available here: garn. Each 50 gram ball has a generous 240 meters/262 yards. I am delighted to tell you that the pattern has been bought by the Norwegian magazine Familien and it will be published in March next year in their separate magazine Vårens Strikkebok/Spring Knittingbok. Test knitting of the English pattern will begin in January in my Ravelry Group.
The sweater is knitted in the round until the armholes and the cables continue to the neck on the back. It was finished just in time for my photo shoot with photographer Kim Müller and Francesca Golfetto. I will show you the photos when the test knitting is open in January, and they were selected by Familien to be included in their magazine.
The small cable is part of the large cable pattern and was ideal for the sleeve, I thought. With 3 small cables separated by reversible stocking stitch on the top of the sleeve and double moss/seed stitch on each side under the sleeve. I recently displayed the sweater at the Arts, Crafts and Design fair where I was presenting my book, and received complements for it. A comment that was extremely useful and which I had already considered: “What about an ordinary set in sleeve as an option for those that do not want a puffed sleeve?”. I needed no more convincing and have included it in the pattern. So the sweater has been in the planning for years but I am finally happy with the completed result!
Cloudy Morning
The clouds were sweeping across the fjord yesterday morning. My husband captured this dramatic photo from our terrace of their movement. The clouds seemed to glide gracefully along the fjord before they disappeared, and a bright blue sky appeared. We are still experiencing mild autumn temperatures this late in November, and enjoying it…
LaChaise in Clotheshorse Fall/Winter 2013
My design has been published in the recently published Fall/Winter issue of Clotheshorse digital magazine. I am delighted with Heather Dixon’s photography and styling as well as the stunning model, Natalie! In my design submission in response to their experimental mood board, I wrote: “Tyrol Scarf and Loose Sleeves. An experiment with layered tucks and a patterned cable results in an exciting scarf with matching loose sleeves. I adore these Tyrol cables with their flower bud shapes and the contrasting tucks at each end. The layered tucks create a sculptural feel and add drama to the bottom of the loose sleeves. Both are knitted in the round to form a tube of textured volume.” I suggested knitting it in Madeline Tosh DK in Composition Grey but Clotheshorse selected the much softer and more divine Blue Sky Alpacas Metalico in 50% alpaca, 50% mulberry silk in the natural color of Platinum, see blueskyalpacas. Each skein is 50 g with 135 m/147 yds, so you will need 13 for the scarf and 5 for the loose sleeves or 17 for the set and 3.5 mm/US 4 circular needles. Here is a link directly to the pattern page: issuu.com/clotheshorse.
The scarf is worked in the round, bottom up in two parts; first: tucks and cables and second: opposite tucks to make the tuck layers identical. The parts are knitted together with a 3 needle bind off. The loose sleeves have elastic in the encasing at the top (or knitted in elastic, if preferred), in addition to a cord which can be tied onto the scarf at cable crossings when worn around the shoulders and fastened with a shawl pin or tucked into the end, see photograph below taken by my husband. One loose sleeve also looks nice worn as a small scarf around the neck.
The most popular of the 25 designs in this issue of Clotheshorse is the cabled cardigan; Hardy by Kristen Tendyke, see ravelry, while I prefer the spiked shoulder jacket; Hepworth by Ruth Roland, see ravelry. Here are all the designs presented on Ravelry; clotheshorse-fall-winter-2013/patterns but do not miss the Runway Reports in the magazine itself, see clotheshorsemag. Thank you, Clotheshorse!
Finish-Free Knits by Kristen Tendyke
I know at lot of knitters who prefer to minimize the amount of finishing and especially avoid sewing if they can. Kristen Tendyke encourages every knitter to try an unfamiliar technique in her introduction, and I want to see what I can learn. Beginning a shrug with the cable panel at the centre of the back and then picking up stitches on each side of the panel is a smart solution, I had not considered in any detail. While shaping lace by working with different needle sizes is a technique I know and have used. There are several top-down projects worth studying as well as tips on how to avoid puckering at the underarms. My favorite part of the book is how to shape set-in sleeves while working in the round and it will be my homework for now. At Amazon you can see inside the book: Finish-Free-Knits-No-Sew-Garments-Classic and on her website you can see all the 20 projects presented: kristentendyke. Kristen Tendyke is also an technical editor for the digital magazine Clotheshorse where my second pattern just have been featured. More details will follow.
Photo Shoot Pics – Part Two: Arcade Vest
Here are my favorite photos of the Arcade Vest, modeled by stunning dancer Francesca Golfetto, captured by brilliant photographer Kim Müller taken at the Astrup Fearnley Museum at Tjuvholmen in Oslo. Test knit of the English pattern in my group on Ravelry will start 22nd November with a flexible deadline of 17th January, but you can sign up now. A straight vest inspired by Haider Ackermann’s architectonic style and jewel colours. Arcades knitted by cables, framed by double moss/seed stitch and ended with an I-cord around neck and armholes. The double front gives the vest weight and close it as you prefer with a shawlpin or a belt. Close it at the top for a trendy look and an asymmetrical opening. Knitted in the beautiful Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Furyarn from Hifa in a turquoise mélange colour.
Size: S (M) L (XL) 2XL (3XL)
Finished measurements: Bust: 92 (96) 102 (116) 124 (134) cm/36.25 (38.25) 40 (45.75) 48.75 (52.75)” incl overlap: 6.5 (6.5) 6.5 (6.5) 8.5 (8.5) cm/2.5 (2.5) 2.5 (2.5) 3.25 (3.25)” Length: 77 (77) 77 (79) 79 (79) cm/30.25 (30.25) 30.25 (31) 31 (31)”
Yarn: Hifa, Norsk Pelsullgarn in turquoise sh 1106: 4 (4.5) 5 (6) 6.5 (7.5) skeins; 1014 (1144) 1300 (1508) 1664 (1846) m/1109 (1251) 1422 (1649) 1820 (2019) yds (100% Norwegian furyarn wool, 100 g, 260 m/284 yds). www.ull.no.
Alternative Yarns: Berroco, Ultra Alpaca Light (50% alpaca, 50% wool, 50 g, 133 m/144 yds). www.berroco.com/yarns/berroco-ultra-alpaca-light Anzula, Kern (100% alpaca, 50 g, 160 m/175 yds) see anzula.squarespace.com/anzula/ Or another DK/8 ply yarn.
Needles: 3.5 mm/US 4 circular needles (80 cm/32” and 40 cm/16”), 2 DPNs (for I-cord) or size needed for gauge.
Notions: Cable needle, 3 stitch holders and yarn needle
Gauge: 20 sts and 24 rows in Arcade Pattern, 20 sts and 26 rows in double moss/seed stitch equals 10cm/4” square.
Notes: The vest is knitted in rows in one piece to armhole, where it is separated. The armhole band is knitted in the round. Dec: When decreasing for neck and armhole only for L and XL, change first and last Arcade Pattern repeat into reverse st st to avoid decreasing in pattern. Length: Adjust length by knitting additional rows in double moss/seed st at the bottom and/or more/less Arcade Patterns before armhole dec.
The test knit pattern includes video links to techniques used, chart and schematic. Come and join us at www.ravelry.com/groups/linda marveng.