Seamless Knitting by Anna Verschik

Posted on January 11, 2014 by Linda Marveng

I have been waiting impatiently for this beautiful book to arrive from the Apollo Bookstore in Tallinn, Estonia. Anna Verschik is a linguistics professor, and an avid designer with her own blog; “kuduja” which means knitter in Estonian. It is fascinating reading, as you can imagine. Well, finally her book arrived: and I am ever so pleased to be able to study it in detail, especially the brilliant chapter on constructions. As Anna says in her introduction: “My knitting is guided by three keywords – construction, proportion, intuition.” She favors top down but also works sideways, or even combines the two. When it comes to proportion everyone knows what suits them, and what a suitable length is, especially easy to test when knitting top down, claims Anna. Quite often our intuition prompts whether a garment is suitable for you or not or whether a style is worth trying. “Quite naturally the knits in the book reflect my taste because I have created them. My style balances on the edge of minimalism, stitch patterns and adornments are not plentiful – I am always careful not to overdo it. However, if you like colourwork, busy patterns and rich style, this does not prevent you from trying out the constructions described here. The patterns in this book are meant as an illustration, and not a goal in itself. You can immediately pick a knit you like and make it. But before that I recommend that you read the read the overview of constructions that I have used.” There are 14 trendy patterns, all in size S to XL with generous charts, knitted using from a 3 mm/US 2.5 to a 5.5 mm/US 9, some with negative ease that stretches when worn while others with positive ease. See all of Anna’s gorgeous designs here: Ravelry.com/designers/anna-kuduja.

I was keen to see the rest of the pullover on the cover, and was very pleased to look at all the artistic photos on this website: siimvahur. Real Green is a sweater with a large neck opening and a central lace panel, knitted to be worn with negative ease. The pullover is knitted top-down and the pattern is easily divided into steps with clear instructions. The yarn used is Jil from G-B Wolle, 100% wool, 50 g/125 m, using 3.5 mm needles. Anna recommends “using several pairs of circular needles so that you can try on the garment as you go.”

Copyright: Siim Vahur, www.siimvahur.com/comseeriad/koolibri

Black glitter is a mohair and cotton-rayon blend top with positive ease, and a perfect example of how Anna’s minimalistic yet trendy style. Three yarns are used, but only two are held together at the same time to make up the strips: Rowan Kidsilk Haze (70% kid mohair, 30% silk, 25 g/210 m), Glitter (thin glittering thread suitable for embroidery or sewing) and Katia Brisa (60% cotton, 40% rayon, 50 g/125 m). The top is knitted using 4 mm, several pairs of circular needles are recommended for trying on, as it is knitted top-down.

Two in one. “Knits with the same construction and stitch pattern but made from different yarns. Gauge in width is the same in both yarns, which yields two-in-one effect.” Both the sweater and the top (sleeveless) are knitted sideways. Photographed here is the sweater knitted in a multicolored Aade Long 8/2 (100% wool, 100 g/400 m), using 3.5 mm needles. Anna is one of four designers in the Artemis Adornments Group on Ravelry, where she runs her test knits and knit alongs. You will find her there as “kuduja”, do join her!

2013 My Discoveries

Posted on January 8, 2014 by Linda Marveng

My essential discoveries of 2013, illustrated by a photo taken from our terrace by my husband, were:

Blogging is fun, thanks to all my readers! I also want to thank Jean Moss for letting me take part in her blogtour for Great Little Gifts to Knit, and interviewing her.
Organizing my own photo shoot is hard work, but immensely satisfying, thanks to dancer Francesca Golfetto and photographer Kim Müller!
Breaking a collarbone is painful, and prevents you from knitting for a several days – then still painful but possible, before it becomes pleasurable again! I do not recommend it!
Proof reading patterns is a demanding task, but ever so essential, and educational at times.
Understanding German knitting abbreviations requires dedication and time.
Submitting designs to International magazines is time-consuming, and not always successful but never wasted time.

Photo Shoot Pics – Part Four: Nora Sweater

Posted on January 4, 2014 by Linda Marveng

I am ever so pleased with the photos Kim Müller took of Francesca Golfetto wearing the Nora Sweater. The outfit was planned carefully since I desperately wanted to include the science-fiction sculptural shoes by Camilla Skovgaard, which were bought on sale for the photo shoot of my book to match the taupe coloured yarn in Jacket in Cross (see sneak-peak-1) and this yarn, BC Garn Semilla Fino, see garn.dk. So was the light and bare background necessary to focus all the attention on the cables, as well as Francesca’s elegance. A mélange taupe in a delicate fingering weight yarn was chosen for this slightly fitted stylish cable sweater with a shawl collar. I chose a Missoni shaped puffed sleeve for a modern twist but you can chose a set in sleeve option if you prefer. A voluptuous small cable encased by side cables, reverse stocking stitch and double seed stitch was the beginning of this design. The test knit of the English pattern has just started in my Ravelry group, please join us if you like. I am happy to announce that Familien will publish the Norwegian pattern, with the top two of these photos, in their “Vårens Strikkebok”.

The English pattern will be published in my Ravelry store after completed test knitting, here are the pattern details, in case you want to take part in the test knitting, or are interested in the pattern:

Size: S (M, L, XL)

Finished measurements Bust: 90 (94, 99, 104) cm/35.5 (37, 39, 41)” Waist: 78 (82, 87, 92) cm/30.75 (32.25, 34.25, 36.25)” Hip: 90 (94, 99, 104) cm/35.5 (37, 39, 41)” Length: 56.5 (57.5, 58.5, 59.5) cm/22.25 (22,75, 23, 23.5)” Sleeve length: 46cm/18”

Yarn: BC Garn Semilla Fino in sh ox103 (100% certified ecological wool, 240m/262yds, 50 g): 7 (8, 9, 10) balls; 1560 (1800, 2040, 2280) m/ 1706 (1969, 2231, 2493) yds, bcgarn.

Alternative yarns Jamieson’s Shetland Spindrift (100% wool, 105 m/115 yds, 25 g) jamiesonsofshetland. Rauma, Røros Lamullsgarn (100% lambswool, 250 m/273 yds, 50 g) raumaull. Or a similar 4ply/Fingering yarn.

Needles: 3 mm/US 2.5 (80 cm/32″) circular needle and 3.5 mm/US 4 DPNs or needle to match gauge.

Notions: Cable needle, 2 stitch markers, yarn needle and scrap yarn for running yarn markers.

Gauge: 28 sts and 38 rows in reverse stocking stitch measures 10 cm/4″ square. 26 sts and 38 rows in double seed pattern measures 10 cm/4″ square. 40 sts in cable panel on sleeve measures 12 cm/4.75″ wide.

Notes: Sleeves and body are worked in the round until armhole and then are worked back and forth. The large cable on front is changed to small cable with rev st st and dbl seed st before neck shaping. The small cable on the sleeves is the centre of the large cable on the body. The I-cord cast off tightens the collar, so if you prefer to it to lie flatter, bind off in pattern instead. Chose if you want to work a puff sleeve or a set-in sleeve.

I have not made a knitting review of 2013, nor made too many new year resolutions, but I am working on a list of my most essential discoveries of 2013 which I will share next.

New Released Pattern: Regal Purple Jacket

Posted on January 1, 2014 by Linda Marveng

Happy New Year! The test knitting is coming to an end, and I have released the English version of the Regal Purple Jacket in my Ravelry Store. I want to take this opportunity to thank all my test knitters! The Norwegian pattern will be published in “Vårens Strikkebok”, a magazine by Familien, due out in March. I am thrilled that it will be accompanied by photos of dancer Francesca Golfetto by Kim Müller, see above. The tech edited pattern includes the cowl, and the English version have 3 different sleeve lengths, chart, schematic plus video links. Here is a link to where you can buy and download the pdf : ravelry.com/stores/linda-marveng.

This vibrant rich purple is regal to me. I choose a lace pattern called Flower Wave, which is half lace and half garter stitch, hence easy to memorize. The Regal Purple Jacket has an A-line shape with added garter stitches in the side for decreasing, short sleeves and a V-neck with a garter stitch then stocking stitch band. It is knitted flat, in a divine 4 ply/fingering cotton called Perle/Pearl from Hifa, and then sewn together to give stability to the garment. Optional 3/4 length or long sleeves patterns are included in addition to a stripy stocking stitch cowl, knitted in the round and grafted together, to accentuate the lace pattern.

Sizes: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)

Finished Measurements: Bust: 92 (98, 106, 116, 126, 136) cm/36.25 (38.5, 41.75, 45.75, 49.5, 53.5)” Hip: 112 (118, 126, 136, 146, 156) cm/44 (46.5, 49.5, 53.5, 57.5, 61.5)” Length: 60 (62.5, 62.5, 65, 67.5, 67.5) cm/23.5 (24.5, 24.5, 25.5, 26.5, 26.5)” Short sleeves: 14 (14, 16, 16, 18, 18) cm/5.5 (5.5, 6.25, 6.25, 7, 7)” OR 3/4 sleeves: 36 (36, 33.5, 33.5, 31, 31) cm/14.25 (14.25, 13.25, 13.25, 12.25, 12.25)” OR long sleeves: 50 (50, 47.5, 47.5, 45, 45) cm/19.75 (19.75, 18.75, 18.75, 17.75, 17.75)” Cowl: Circumference: 33 cm/13”, length: 123 cm/48.5″

Yarn: Hifa, Perle in red purple sh 18357 (100% Egyptian mercerized cotton, 670 m/732yds, 200 g cone), see ull. Jacket with short sleeves: 2 (2, 2, 3, 3, 3) cones: 1005 (1172, 1340, 1507, 1675, 1843) m/1099 (1282, 1465, 1648, 1832, 2015) yds. Jacket with long or 3/4 sleeves: 2 (3, 3, 3, 3, 4) cones: 1340 (1507, 1675, 1843, 2010, 2178) m/1465 (1648, 1832, 2015, 2198, 2382) yds. 3/4 sleeves version uses approx 135 m/147 yds less in each size. Cowl: 1 cone: 600m/656 yds

Yarn alternatives: Filatura di Crosa, Dolce Amore (100% cotton, 181 m/198yds, 50 g), see tahkistacycharles. Fyberspates, Vivacious 4 ply (100% superwash merino, 365 m/399 yds, 100 g), see fyberspates. Anzula, Squishy (80% superwash merino, 10% cashmere, 10% nylon, 352 m/385 yds, 115 g), see anzula or another fingering/4 ply (14 wpi) yarn.

Needles: 3 mm/US 2.5 circular needle (80 cm/32”) for jacket, (40 cm/16”) for cowl or size needed to match gauge.

Notions: 2 stitch markers, 5 stitch holders, spare circular needle in same or smaller size than working needles, yarn needle and waste yarn for cowl cast on.

Gauge: 24 sts and 34 rows in Flower Wave Pattern measures 10 cm/4″ square. 24 sts and 36 rows in garter st measures 10 cm/4″ square. 30 sts and 34 rnds in stocking st measures 10 cm/4″ square. Or size needed to match gauge.

Next is my first test knit of 2014: The Nora Sweater.

Ekebergparken – The New Sculpture Park

Posted on December 28, 2013 by Linda Marveng

This autumn a new sculpture park has opened in Oslo, at Ekeberg. It is in walking distance from where I live, and a brilliant place to go for a walk. Even before it became a sculpture park it was a National Heritage Park with a diverse cultural history, going all the way back to the Stone Age, see The Guardian. A Sculpture Park, with femininity as the theme and starting point for the selection of sculptures, was the idea of property developer and art collector – Christian Ringnes – and a very controversial one, even before it opened that is, see Ekebergparken. All costs are covered by his ideal foundation which owns the sculptures on display. Currently there are 31 sculptures by acknowledged, mainly contemporary, artists such as Louise Bourgeois, see the amazing “The Couple” above (photographed by my husband); Hilde Mæhlum; Tony Cragg; Auguste Rodin and Marina Abramovic. Her “Site Specific Performance, 2013” allowed a selection of the public to recreate “The Scream” by Edvard Munch with a genuine scream filmed with a golden frame capturing their face – see ekebergparken. The facial expressions as well as Abramovic’s comments made it memorable to watch – especially the clip of Ringnes himself who after two tests still looked at peace with himself while screaming – he was asked whether that was all he could muster. Ringnes explained that he had no need to scream since he spends a lot of time in the mountains where he can, and often does scream, while others seemed to have a basic need to scream their heads off, and make grotesque faces of despair at the same time.

Above is the captivating “The Concave Face” (photographed by my husband); “Sculptor Hilde Mæhlum has worked with masks for many years. What we see and what we do not see has been her project, expressed in sculpture. She works in several techniques, from paper to metal and stone.

The concave or negative facial shape has long been an object of fascination for the artist. This shape explores how the viewer’s consciousness in a sense creates the art work, and how a shape might change its expression following the viewer’s standpoint and emotional situation.” See more photos of it at ekebergparken. It is a fascinating piece of art which you need to walk past a couple of times to see how the face follows you, and appears to have a desire to come out of the marble. It is no wonder that more than 1 million has visited the park since it opened in September, in stark contrast to the predicted 200 000 visitors during the first year. I can recommend it, but if you are not able to visit it for the time being, take a digital tour of their website, and marvel.

In Trend Knit Magazine in Time for Christmas

Posted on December 25, 2013 by Linda Marveng

This magazine arrived in my postbox in good time for Christmas, and it has become such a treasured subscription from Magazine Cafe in New York. Not to read but to look at, admire and be inspired by. I love studying the colors, textures and shapes chosen for all this amazing creations. It blows my mind and makes me want to create my own designs. I used to buy In Trend Knit in London if I was quick enough at WH Smith, the newsagent, at Selfridges Department Store, but have not seen it in Oslo yet, even though the largest news agent in Norway: Narvesen has a very good selection these days. So this is one of my plans for Christmas as well as knitting a new design for a magazine submission. Enjoy your holidays!

New Design: Autumn Symphony

Posted on December 21, 2013 by Linda Marveng

Leaves cover this A-lined jacket knitted in one piece with a false seam in a middle of a triangular shaped stocking stitch panel. The sleeves are knitted in the round with leaves up to the shaping, where the lace pattern is changed to reverse stocking stitch. A belt in autumn coloured tweed lengthens the jacket, and introduces the orange wrap, see photo above without the wrap and below with it, all taken by my husband. Or why not wear the wrap as a belt and opposite. The set is knitted in the gorgeous melange coloured Ask – Hifa 2 from Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk, see ask-melert, using 3.5 mm/US 4 needles. For details of each stitch pattern see my post, design-in-progress-autumn-symphony. I am delighted to tell you that the Norwegian pattern has been sold to magazine Familien but the English pattern will be ready for test knitting in late January in my group on Ravelry. First I need to finishing grading it from size S to 3XL, and send it off for tech editing. The idea is that you find your favorite look, or use the accessories as you like.

Below is the opposite look, wearing the belt as a wrap and the wrap as a belt. The belt is shaped and I will grade it to the different sizes, while the wrap is one size knitted in the round without any shaping, which makes it easy to add or remove a pattern repeat depending on how small or large you want to make it.

Or if you want to wear the belt as a wrap too, then consider how far down you want it to hang and choose the closest size. Ideal for a cold climate like we have in Norway. And with this new design I want to wish all my readers a Merry Christmas!

Photo Shoot Pics – Part Three: Regal Purple Jacket

Posted on December 18, 2013 by Linda Marveng

Test knitting of the English pattern of Regal Purple Jacket & Cowl is nearly complete, and I will release the pattern on Ravelry at the end of the month. But first I would like to show you the stunning photos Kim Müller took of the amazing dancer Francesca Golfetto during our photo shoot in September. You have already seen it the setting with Kim, Francesca and my husband in action at Aker Brygge/Wharf in Oslo. Above is the jacket showing the v-neck shaping, garter stitch and rolling stocking stitch neckband, and the short sleeves. It is knitted in the beautiful mercerized 4-ply/fingering cotton yarn called Perle/Pearl from Hifa, see ull, using 3mm/US 2.5, and will be published in Norwegian by Familien in their separate magazine Vårens Strikkebok/Spring Knitting book with Kim’s photos together with 3 other of my designs; Tyrol Jacket, Nora Sweater and Lace Ridge Top. I am very pleased with this, as you can imagine!

Here is the long cowl, knitted in the round in stocking stitch with reverse stocking stitch stripes, where I turned instead of purling several rows at a time and to hide the hole where I turned I made a yarn over which I decreased with the last stitch on the round. The cowl is plain to emphasize the lace pattern on the jacket itself and fits two times around if you want it closer around your neck, see below. As for the lace pattern it does look more complicated than it is, since half the pattern repeat is garter stitch and half of the lace rows are repeated twice within the pattern repeat. I have chosen to end the lace pattern where the shaping begins on around the armholes, neck and on the sleeve cap since I find it hard to keep the stitch count in lace otherwise. But you are very welcome to adjust the pattern to your own preference. The English pattern comes with instructions with optional 3/4 and long sleeves while the Norwegian one in Strikkeboka only has the short sleeves since they are the only ones photographed. And it will not be long until you can see the test knitted versions linked to the pattern on Ravelry, but in the mean time I hope you are enjoying this før-jul/pre-Christmas time!

New Released Pattern: Eligia Top & Cowl

Posted on December 14, 2013 by Linda Marveng

One year ago, this pattern was featured in the digital magazine Clotheshorse (see archive) and now the rights have come back to me. It is now available in both English and Norwegian from my Ravelry Store, see ravelry.com/stores/linda-marveng.

ELIGIA TOP AND COWL

An elegant evening look, with Gothic aspirations was my aim for this top and cowl. The result was a fitted allover lace sweater with puffed sleeves and a straight boatneck, knitted in a yarn with sheen, and smooth to the touch in deep purple. Tencel is a fiber I love knitting with since it only needs to be stretched into shape, and feels like silk, hence selected for this set. Eligia means the chosen one, and so it was by Clotheshorse; first published in No. 3 Winter 2012-2013.

Size: S (M, L, XL, XXL)

Finished Measurements: Top: Bust: 92.5 (98, 101.5, 105.5, 109) cm/ 36.5 (38.5, 40, 41.5, 43)” Waist: 80 (85, 89, 92.5, 98) cm/ 31.5 (33.5, 35, 36.5, 38.5)” Length: 55 cm/21.5″, Sleeve length: 45.5 cm/18″. Cowl: Circumference 59.5 cm/23.5″, height 34.5 cm/13.5″

Yarn: Valley Yarns 8/2 Tencel in Eggplant (100% Lyocell, 1lb/454g, 3360yds/3675m): 1 (1, 1, 2, 2) Cones: 2833 (3238, 3640, 4045, 4450) m/ 3098 (3541, 3981, 4424, 4867) yds used for top and an extra 809 m/885 yds used for cowl yarn or handweavers.

Note: Yarn is held double throughout pattern.

Alternative yarns: Jaggerspun Zephyr Wool-Silk 2/18 held double (50% merino, 50% tussah silk, 454 g/1lb, 5040 yds/ 4609 m) jaggeryarn. Drops, Lace held double (70% alpaca, 30% silk, 800 m/ 874 yds, 100 g) garnstudio.

Needles: 3 mm/US 2.5 straight needles, 3 mm/US 2.5 circular knitting needle 80 cm/32″, 3 mm/US 2.5 circular knitting needle 60 cm/24″ for cowl or size needed to obtain gauge

Notions: 24 Stitch markers, 2 Stitch holders, cotton thread if not using Tencel to puff sleeves and yarn needle

Gauge: 29 sts and 38 rows in rev st st using 3 mm/US 2.5 needles and 2 strands of yarn held together equals 10 cm/4″ square. 17 sts in Lace Panel using 3 mm/US 2.5 needles and 2 strands of yarn held together equals 6.5 cm/2.5″. Or size needed to obtain gauge.

Notes: The sleeves are knitted first and worked flat to learn the stitch pattern, while the body and the cowl is knitted in the round. The pullover has puffed sleeves, made by increasing each side of the middle pattern repeat, and puffed by hand and then set in. If not using Tencel, use cotton thread so the yarn will be strong enough to pull the sts together. The body is shaped between each of Lace Panels. The rev st st between each Lace Panel varies in stitch count depending on size chosen.

Hot Nok/Hot Enough at Designerkollektivet

Posted on December 11, 2013 by Linda Marveng

Thea Glimsdal Temte, the tailor behind the brand HotNok/Hot Enough was one of the designers at the talk “A Tradition that Inspires” at Designerkollektivet, who I want to present in greater detail. She started the brand in 2006, after working with restoration of 200 year old clothes specializing in folk costumes in co-operation with Norsk Folkemuseum/Norwegian Folk Museum. Hot Nok makes clothes that allows you to move freely without any restrictions, just as the folk costumes did in their time, but with its own visual expression adjusted to modern life. A rock musician from Trondheim who modeled the clothes expressed; “It is just as if the jacket is embracing me!”. In other words clothes that takes care of you, made in mainly felted wool in bright colors with striking small details like a straight seam ending in a small heart. Above is the inspirational photo by Cathrine Dokken of the stunning dress “Hilde” worn by the gorgeous violinist Ragnhild Hemsing, it is also available in green and black, the tulle petticoat is separate and perfect for special occasions. The magnificent clothes are available at Designerkollektivet at Glasmagasinet in Oslo, online at miinto.no or contact Thea directly by e-mail: thea@hotnok.no. Check out how well they fit and be inspired.