New Design: Maith

XT1A5322The new silk yarn from Rowan, called Rowan Truesilk, captivated me in an instant. In addition to making a jacket in the cream color called Adoe, I decided to make a shrug with a cowl for collar. The pure mulberry silk has a generous 150 meters on each 50 gram ball, and for the shrug I choose the shade Hush 333 which I believed to be like a gold shade. It was more green than I anticipated but still divine. The shrug is worked from one sleeve cuff, across the back to the opposite sleeve cuff, with gracious cables all along it. The set was beautifully knitted by my sample knitter Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry. The yarn was kindly sponsored by Permin, Rowan’s Scandinavian agent. I will self publish the Norwegian pattern in my Ravelry Store in February, but have the English pattern test knitted in my Ravelry group before its release in the late autumn.

XT1A5319The shrug and cowl are both available in 3 sizes: XS/S (M/L, XL/2XL) and both are knitted using a 4 mm/US 6 needle with a gauge of 23 stitches and 30 rounds in stockinette stitch to 10 cm/4″ square. Only the width varies between the different sizes, not the length. You can easily adjust the length by removing or adding pattern repeats to each sleeve if desired. The shrug is worked from cuff to cuff in one piece. The cuff and sleeve is worked in the round, then worked flat across the back to the opposite sleeve where it is worked in the round to the final bind off at the cuff. The increases on the sleeve is first worked into the purl stitches between the cables in reverse stocking stitch, then in garter stitch at each end of round.

XT1A5314All the photos above are taken by my husband on our terrace a few days before the photo shoot. I planned to show the shrug and cowl over one of Judith Bech’s divine wedding gowns but due to time constraints it was professionally photographed by Eivind Røhne on Alexandria Eissinger in the same top but different silk trouser than I am wearing above. I cannot wait to show you those photos but first I will reveal the last design in this bridal series I have made.

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New Design: Sarya

XT1A5477I knew I wanted to design a jacket with a v-neck and overlapping fronts with at least two different stitch patterns; one for each part of the body. What I had not planned was how successfully it worked having the fronts hanging loose – as waterfall fronts – and the slight asymmetrical look it created. I had intended to close it with a piece of jewelry or a shawl pin, but without making any closures you are free to choose how to wear it. Sarya after the night traveler seemed an appropriate name for it. The jacket is knitted in the stunning Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace – a merino and tussah silk mixture – held double with a beautiful luster and drape. The yarn has been kindly sponsored. I plan to release the Norwegian pattern on Ravelry in February and have the English pattern test knitted in my Ravelry group in August, before I release it.

XT1A5501The body of the jacket is knitted back and forth in pieces, while the sleeves are knitted in the round. Hems, tuck and garter stitch parts are knitted using 3 mm/US 2.5, while the lace pattern is knitted using 3.5 mm/US 4. The double neckband is picked up and knitted afterwards, then sewn in place on WS. By mistake I used a larger needle; 3.5 mm/US 4 for the neck band and it assisted in pulling the fronts into a slight asymmetrical shape. If you prefer to wear it closed as in the top photo, I suggest using a smaller needle size a 3 mm/US 2.5 for the neck band instead.

XT1A5485I have graded the pattern from size XS to 2XL with a bust circumference from 85 cm to 126 cm/33.5 to 49.5″, and a length from 62 cm to 67 cm/24.5 to 26.5″. The gauge is 25 stitches and 36 rows in stockinette stitch using double yarn and 3.5 mm/US 4 needles. As usual I have preferred to hold 2 strands of the yarn together to create a dense and professional look, but you can always substitute the yarn with thicker yarn so that you can knit with 1 strand instead. I choose garter stitches as the accompanying stitch pattern and used it for increasing on the sleeves as well. All the photos above are taken by my husband on our terrace in November, since the neck band was not finished until a few days before our photoshoot in October. As I am sure you can imagine it looks even more ravaging on Alexandria Eissinger than it does on me. You just wait and see…

 

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Helka Buttons by Siri Berrefjord

_SBB6523I wanted to add the most stunning buttons I could think of to my Helka, the long jacket with cables that looks woven, so I sent a request to jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord to check if she was willing to make me some bespoke buttons. I am thrilled to say that she was happy to oblige, so I sent her my knitted swatch and told her about my design plans to make garments to fit with dress designer Judith Bech’s wedding gowns. I had decided that I wanted to adorn the button band with an excess of buttons and ordered 13 buttons from her, all in the size small with a diameter of 18 millimeters/0.7″, all in cream with gold on the center top. Included, I wanted a set of photos taken by Siri, a trained photographer, that shows the immaculate details on these handmade buttons molded in plastic after old traditional national costume/bunad silver.

_SBB6515Siri played around with the color and decided to go for a foggy white color – a thinner layer of white – so that the button would look cream and at the same time absorb the background color of the knitted jacket. She also tested covering more of the button in gold but discovered it would remove all the details of the pattern below.

_SBB6517As always I am impressed by the composition of the photos, making sure the background matches the object in the photograph. These beautiful buttons also work equally well as button cufflinks or earrings or small brooches. Makeløs/Remarkable stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik – yes, she is – proved this on our photoshoot in Fredrikstad for the magazine Made by Me. Take a close look at the cufflink in orange worn by Pia Cecilie/Team Models in this photo: www.marveng-puckett.com.

_SBB6510I love how all the rounded details on the buttons stand in contrast to the straight lines created by the cables. These photos also show a bit of the texture of the numerous cables that make up the pattern on Helka. The Norwegian pattern will be printed in the special magazine called Familien Håndarbeid out in March, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group late April before its release.

_SBB6512In the photo above you can clearly see the cable in all its glory while the buttons look less textured than they are. I wanted to show you all these photos so you had the chance to study the buttons. You will find a selection of her buttons available in her shop on Epla here: Siris Skattkammer. Siri sent me 14 buttons in the end, and I am ever so pleased that she did, since I decided to use them all! The professional photos of Helka taken by Eivind Røhne will soon be revealed here, but first I will show you 3 more new designs…

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New Design: Keya Scarf & Shrug

XT1A5285Voluminous hidden sand cables in a tweed mixture made of Rowan Lima and Rowan Fine Tweed, creates a divine texture that is reversible. First I made a scarf that was initially intended for the Nordic Vintage series published in Made by Me in September 2014, but did not fit the color scheme and was taken out. I took it out again last autumn and figured out it would definitely fit with my neutrals in the wedding gown series. But even at a winter wedding the bride will need more than a scarf to go over the wedding gown hence I thought a shrug with bell sleeves would do the job. Maybe even with a loose back panel to cover a bare or partly bare back too. The result is a shrug with a loose back panel and a scarf for collar or just make the scarf, or just the shrug. I plan to publish the Norwegian pattern on Ravelry in February and the English one after it has been test knitted in my group, early this autumn. Grete Jenssen, aka ma9, knitted the shrug magnificently and with the usual speed to which I slowed her down by having to send her more yarn…

XT1A5273By holding Rowan Lima made of 84% baby alpaca, 8% merino, 8% nylon, on 50 g balls with a put up of 110 meters/120 yards together with Rowan Fine Tweed of 100% wool on 25 gram balls with 90 m/98 yds put up, I made a dense tweedy and soft texture. I decided to knit on the recommended needles for Lima; 5.5 mm/US 9 to avoid the garment dropping and to make the cables pop. The result is a gauge of 16 stitches and 27 rows in garter stitch. The shrug is knitted from cuff to cuff, sideways in one piece. The first sleeve is knitted in the round, to the flat back and is then joined again for the second sleeve. I decided to keep the back piece loose so that it can be used around the neck too if desired, or pinned with an earring or a brooch to the back of the shrug and the scarf, see below (where I used safety pins). The yarn was kindly sponsored by Permin, Rowan Yarns’ Scandinavian agent.

XT1A5306

The scarf come in one size but can easily be adjusted by in width by adding repeats or edge stitches in garter stitch, while the shrug comes in 3 sizes: XS/S as I am wearing above, M/L and XL/2XL. The only variation on the shrug is the width of it and the width of the back panel. The cables do look complicated but all stitches are worked in either garter stitch or 1/1 rib all along, including in the cable crossings.

XT1A5298All these photos were taken by my husband a few days before the photoshoot in October. I tried it over the wedding gowns I had borrowed from designer Judith Bech and guess what? The color did not match at all, hence I ended up choosing a pair of silk trouser in taupe to go with it instead. The photos of Alexandria wearing it made by jaw drop and my head spin.  You wait and see!

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New Design: Adoe

XT1A5456I am pleased to present the last of 4 designs that will be published in Norwegian in the special magazine Familien Håndarbeid in March. Adoe means time and it seemed entirely appropriate for this delicate jacket with wavy lace focus and garter stitch edging. The deep v-neck is adorned with scallops made by the wavy lace patterns. It is knitted in the stunning chainette yarn: Truesilk by Rowan Yarns, and intended for those special times. Use a beautiful brooch to close the jacket. I knitted the body of this jacket straight and in pieces, while the sleeves are knitted in the round. The English pattern will be released after test knitting in my Ravelry group late this fall.

XT1A5463The wavy lace pattern is a variation of the well known Feather and Fan pattern, with garter stitches inside the lace it became an obvious choice for the bands and also as a divider to the stocking stitch in the sides as well as next to the side seam and the fake seam on the sleeves. The silk yarn fits the lace pattern and highlight it, in addition to making it wonderful to wear. The chainette construction of the yarn keeps the knitted silk yarn from dropping as silk yarns usually do. The Rowan Truesilk yarn has 150 m/164 yds on each 50 g skein and using a 4 mm/US 6 knits to a gauge of 22 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch to 10 cm/4 inches after blocking. The yarn was generously sponsored by Permin, Rowan’s Scandinavian agent.

XT1A5467I have graded the jacket in sizes XS to 2XL, with a bust circumference from 83 to 124 cm/32.75 to 124″ and a length (which can be adjusted easily by adding or removing a pattern repeat) of 54 to 59 cm/21.25 to 23.25″. Above you see me wearing size S, photographed by my husband a few days before our photoshoot in October. The jacket looked best with Judith Bech’s fringe skirt in beige, and not with any of the intended wedding gowns. That is my fault and not Judith’s since I had chosen only 5 from her extensive collection since she lives a plane ride away, much further north in Norway. Anyway, it looks fantastic on Alexandria Eissinger, and I cannot wait to show you the photos Eivind Røhne took…

 

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New Design: Helka

XT1A7030I was instantly captured by these intricate cables that look woven with such a sculptural feel to them. They needed a lot of space so I decided to make a long straight jacket with those diamond shaped cables covering all central parts of the jacket. I loved the idea of the cables vanishing first into a rib then into stocking stitch in the sides of the body and into a rib on the top of all the parts. The sleeves are made in cables and rib, but the increases could easily be made in stocking stitch if preferred. Named after Helka the prosperous one, the jacket has a deep v-neck and a double button band, leaving all the glory to the cables. Of course, I wanted bespoke buttons and Siri Berrefjord obliged. I initially planned to make this long jacket to go with a wedding gown with a straight skirt hence I choose white Dreamline Soul from Du Store Alpakka and held it together with the Huldra Kamgarn from Hifa for a slight tweedy structure to it.  With cabling on every second row and round, I need help to knit the sample and Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, was ready to assist and knitted it to my utter satisfaction. The Norwegian pattern will be published in the special magazine: Familien Håndarbeid out in March, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group late spring before it is released.

XT1A7034The jacket is knitted with the 2 yarns held together using a 4 mm/US 6 with a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch measuring 10 cm/4″ square. The body is knitted from the bottom and up in 3 parts, back and forth, while the sleeves are worked in the round. The Woven Cable pattern ends in a rib at the sleevecap and at the v-neck shaping on the fronts, as well as on shoulders at the back. I have graded the jacket from size XS to 2XL, with bust circumference from 84 cm to 124 cm/33 to 48.75″. The length is from 79 cm to 84 cm/31 to 33″, but it can easily be adjusted to preferred length. I am wearing size S (sample size) in these photos taken by my husband on our terrace on a cold November day. Both yarns were generously sponsored by Hillesvåg and Du Store Alpakka.

XT1A7039I was uncertain how many buttons I wanted. Personally, I would probably only use 3 around the bust area, but also loved the idea of of filling the double button band with Siri’s jewelry buttons to adorn the jacket even further. In the end I reasoned that it was better for me to calculate too many buttonholes and for the knitter to remove those not wanted. First, I thought 13 buttons would be enough but ended up adding all the 14 buttons Siri had made. The rib at the top of the back also required that I decrease the number of stitches of the button band at the back neck. This was not done on the sample since I was knitting the button band the evening before the photo shoot and had no time to undo the more than 400 stitches and re-do. The pattern has been corrected to decrease 8 stitches, and is now in a queue with my American tech editor Corrina Ferguson of Picnic Knits. I ended up choosing 5 of Judith Bech’s wedding gowns for the photo shoot and which one suited the Helka best? The tulle petticoat/underskirt which I preferred to use on its own and not under any of the wedding gowns…

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Bech Pattern Released

Bech COVERI released my Bech pattern in English last month on Ravelry, after a successful test knitting. Bech was one of the patterns in the Nordic Vintage series first published in Norwegian in Familien Trend published in February. The whole series was brilliantly photographed by Eivind Røhne, gorgeously modeled by Alex Eissinger/Sweden Models with hair & make up by Sissel Fylling, and dresses byJudith Bech. Here is my introduction to the pattern: A stunning halterneck silk dress with a high waist and bare back, handprinted by Judith Bech made me want to design a shawl, loose sleeves and a matching belt to accessorize it. By combining a beautiful pure combed wool called Huldra Kamgarn from Hifa with the luscious Dreamline Soul from Du Store Alpakka, I found my rich yarn shade and texture. Use the shawl with a shawl collar around your neck, shoulders, bust or upside down, just as you prefer. The belt made of tucks can also be worn around your neck as knitted jewelry, tied or pinned together with a brooch.

Sizes: S/M (L/XL, 2XL)

Finished Measurements: Shawl:                                                                                      Length: 110 (119, 126) cm/43.25 (46.75, 49.5)”                                                                          Width excl collar: 22 (25.5, 29) cm/8.75 (10, 11.5)”                                                                      Width incl widest collar: 36 (39.5, 43) cm/14.25 (15.5, 17)”                                                    Loose sleeves:                                                                                                                           Cuff width: 25 (28, 32) cm/9.75 (11, 12.5)”                                                                                   Width at bottom: 22 (25, 29) cm/8.75 (9.75, 11.5)”                                                                Width at top: 32 (35, 39) cm/12.5 (13.75, 15.25)”                                                                       Sleeve length incl cuff: 50 cm/19.75″                                                                                             Belt:                                                                                                                                           Length: 72 (87, 102) cm/28.25 (34.25, 40.25)”                                                                                  Tie length: 50 cm/19.75″                                                                                                               Width: 10 cm/4″

Yarn: Hifa, Huldra Kamgarn 8,5/2 (100% combed wool, 200 g cone, 850 m/929 yds) Sample is knitted in Light redish grey http://www.ull.no/garn/maskinstrikkegarn/huldra-kamgarn-8-5-2-tykt. Du Store Alpakka, Dreamline, Soul (68% baby alpaca, 32% nylon, 25 g, 177 m/195 yds) Sample is knitted in Melange light grey DL203                                  http://www.dustorealpakka.com/garn-sortiment/?category=29                                       Shawl: 1 (1, 1) cone Huldra and 3 (4, 4) skeins of Soul; 460 (558, 656) m/503 (610, 714) yds of each yarn.                                                                                                                               Loose Sleeves: 1 (1, 1) cone Huldra and 3 (3, 3) skeins of Soul; 374 (414, 467) m/409 (453, 511) yds of each yarn.                                                                                                                    Belt: 1 (1, 1) cone Huldra and 2 (2, 3) skeins of Soul; 272 (314, 356) m/297 (343, 389) yds of each yarn.                                                                                                                                      Note: Yarns are held together throughout.

Needles:                                                                                                                                          2 sets of 4 mm/US 6 circular needles (80 cm/32″) for shawl and loose sleeves. 2 sets of 4 mm/US 6 circular needles (120 cm/48″) for belt. Adjust needle size as needed to match gauge.

Notions: 1 m/1 yard thin elastic cord (1.5 mm/0.059″) for loose sleeves, 2 stitch markers, stitch holders and yarn needle.

Gauge: 20 sts x 28 rows in st st using 1 strand of each yarn measures 10 cm/4″ square.  20 sts x 28 rows in Bech Lace using 1 strand of each yarn measures 10 cm/4″ square. 1 Bech Lace pattern repeat using 1 strand of each yarn measures 7 cm/2.75″ across.

 

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New Design: Elora

XT1A7061The luxurious softness of the Mondial Gold yarn, a mixture of wool and cashmere, together with its crisp stitch definition made it a favorite for this bridal collection I have made to match Judith Bech’s stunning bridal gowns. So this time the yarn came first and the stitch pattern second. I opted for the beautiful reversible lace pattern called Obstacles, and want to emphasize that the meaning of its name does not reflect the knitting experience of it. Like my previous bolero Hennika I wanted a scarf collar but this time decided to add its width to the width fronts so that it can hang folded like you would wear a scarf. The bolero is named after the giving of the laurel; the crown of victory. Perfect, when you see model Alexandria Eissinger wearing it over Judith Bech’s “Secret” wedding gown in felted wool. The Norwegian pattern will be published in Familien Håndarbeid, a special issue, out in March, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group late spring next year, then released.

XT1A7078Mondial Gold is 80% wool, 20% cashmere with 175 meters/191 yards on a 50 g skein with a 26 stitch and 34 rows gauge in stocking stitch using a 3 mm/US 2.5 needle. The yarn was kindly sponsored, and it is Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, who knitted this bolero in just a week, in time for the photo shoot. The body of the bolero is worked in pieces, while the sleeves are worked in the round, all from the bottom and up. I wanted seams to make it more tailored, and for it to hold its shape. The sample is knitted using Annie Modesitt’s Lovely Left Decrease method, see videolink on this page: anniemodesitt.com/videos/.

XT1A7069The bolero is slightly tapered. The collar width is in additon to the front and bust circumference so that it can be folded and pinned as desired. It is knitted in two parts that are joined and then attached around the neck, with extra length to hang loose. For sizes L, XL and 2XL, I suggest adding a pattern repeat to the width of the scarf collar to make the proportions work better. The bolero could easily be adjusted in length if you would prefer a longer version. Above you can see me wearing size S over a black tube dress – photographed by my husband – but it does look gorgeous on Alexandria worn over Judith Bech’s wedding gown. You wait and see!

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Christmas is Here

XT1A7721Just as last year, Christmas came upon me way too quickly. So here I am rushing around doing all the preparations in the last minute. Michael and I will spend Christmas Eve with my brother and his family, Boxing Day with my mum (as well as my brother and his family) and 3. Day of Christmas (as we call it) with some good friends. The photo above is taken from our terrace by my husband, last Sunday. We do not have any snow, but we do have dramatic skies. Today is Little Christmas Eve and I will be cleaning, tidying and wrapping presents. I wish you all a Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year! Happy Holidays and may you have a lot of knitting time! I plan to…

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New Design: Oydis Sweater & Cowl

XT1A5223The Shadow Diamond Cable, was love at first sight and one centered on all parts would be more than sufficient I thought. I have long wanted to test making a curved hem so I gave the sweater an A-line shape so that the bottom part would hang perfectly. I decided to begin with a provisional cast-on so that I could add an I-cord bind off all along the bottom at the end. The round neck has a thin garter stitch band, and there is a garter stitch edge in each side of the body.  Of course it needed a cowl with the cable knitted on one side. The body of the sweater is knitted flat, while the sleeves and the cowl are knitted in the round. A fine tweed yarn, Pickles Merino Tweed, is held together with an alpaca lace yarn, Du Store Alpakka,  Dreamline Soul to create a fabric with a beautiful stitch definition and a slight halo. I plan to publish the pattern in Norwegian on Ravelry in February, and the English pattern after test knitting in my group late next spring.

XT1A5225The inside of the sleeves have the same garter stitch panel as the sides of the body. You can glimpse it in the top photo. The unevenness of the yarn mixture does make the I-cord slightly uneven as you can see in the photo above. Parts of the yarn was generously sponsored by Du Store Alpakka. Oydis is a Norse name and means the Goddess of Good Luck, which I felt was very fitting especially when the sweater is worn with the cowl.

XT1A5233The set is knitted using a 4 mm/US 6 with a gauge of 20 stitches and 30 rows in stocking stitches measuring 10 cm/4″. It will be available in sizes XS to 2XL with a finished bust circumference of 84 to 126 cm/33 to 49.5″, and length of 74 to 79 cm/29.25 to 31″. The cowl is knitted in the rounds and the ends are joined using mattress stitches, but you could easily choose a provisional cast-on and graft if you prefer.

XT1A5252The inside of the cowl is knitted in a rib but with garter stitches for folding so that it stays flat. It can be worn hanging loose or twice around the neck with the rib visible. All these photos are taken of me by my husband on our terrace in October just before the professional photo shoot.

XT1A5261I had no stylist available to tell me to pull the sweater down nor fold the cowl more neatly in the photo above, so I apologize. The stylist is usually me, magnifiscently assisted by hair & make up artist Sissel Fylling and whenever possible editor Mary-Ann Astrup. As you can imagine I had a very difficult time choosing among the professional photos taken by Eivind Røhne of Alexandria Eissinger on the other hand, and ended up with 7 fantastic photos, I am looking forward to showing you after I have presented all the new designs.

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