Wool Studio 2016 with My Design

Posted on December 21, 2016 by Linda Marveng

Interweave Knits and knit.wear editor Meghan Babin sent me an invitation to submit to their new special collection for knit.wear, called Wool Studio 2016, back in March. I was delighted to have this extra opportunity to submit. The result: “Wool Studio is a digital lookbook featuring clean, accessible knitwear designs for every woman.” We are 9 contributing designers, and it is an impressive list: Norah Gaughan, Bristol Ivy, Kate Gagnon Osborn, Sarah Salamon, Amanda Scheuzger, Mary Anne Benedetto, Amanda Bell, Emma Welford and myself. On the stunning cover is Truro Pullover by Amanda Scheuzger. My submission was accepted and here it is, beautifully captured by Harper Point Photography; the Brewster Cardigan.

Interweave / Harper Point Photography

Here is the introduction to the cardigan from the webzine: “Alluring cables and a draped loop cowl create the unusual but captivating silhouette of the Brewster Cardigan. The generous loop cowl can double as pockets, or the extension can be omitted entirely! Either way, the stunning cables and comfortable fit will make this cardigan a favorite for years to come.”

Interweave / Harper Point Photography

The Brewster Cardigan is knitted in Valley Yarns Northfield using a 4 mm/US 6 with a gauge of 22 stitches and 30 rows measuring 10 cm/4″ square. The lush yarn is a mixture made of 70% merino wool, 20% baby alpaca, 10% silk with 113 meters/124 yards on each 50 gram ball, and has a divine stitch definition.

Interweave / Harper Point Photography

The cardigan is worked back and forth in one piece to the armholes, and then the fronts and back are worked separately. The sleeves are worked in the round, with the sleeve cap worked flat. The loop collar is made in two pieces and joined using a three-needle bind off. There are no cables on the fronts, since the wide loop collar is made of the several cable repeats with garter edges and attached along each front with the extra loop hanging loose. In these photos you see the loop collar hanging around the neck once, but it is also possible to hang it twice hence pull the cardigan together or cross the loop at the front for a different look. I will show you these options in the photos my husband took of me in a later blogpost.

Interweave / Harper Point Photography

The sample shown is the third of six sizes and it measures 101.5 cm/40″ around the bust and is modelled with 6″ of positive ease. The smallest size measures 89 cm/35″ and the largest measures 136 cm/53.5″. If you do not like the loop collar you could easily just make it long enough to fit along the opening. Do take a look at the clean and crisp collection that Wool Studio 2016 is. I am so proud to be part of it! Thank you Interweave!

New Design: Hanasa

Posted on December 17, 2016 by Linda Marveng

Du Store Alpakka Baby Silk yarn is a divine mixture of alpaca and silk I wanted to test. I fell for this strong olive green colour and decided to make another a-line sweater with a split cable at the bottom of the body and sleeves. The yarn gives the pullover a lovely sheen. It is beautifully knitted by Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, using 3.5 mm/US 4 needles and a gauge of 24 stitches and 32 rows. The yarn is made of 80% baby alpaca and 20% mulberry silk and comes in 50 grams ball with 133 meters/145 yards. The sample is knitted in Green 307, and the yarn has been kindly sponsored by House of Yarn. The Norwegian pattern will be published in Familien Kreativ in March, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group in June next year.

Here is my introduction to the pattern: Named after the Norse godess with gorgeous hair tress remiscent of this cable. This a-line sweater has a cable vent on both the body and the sleeves. A high round collar finishes off the pullover. Why not add an extra cowl to feel extra cosy in. Hanasa is knitted in a divine silk and alpaca mixture for that lovely feel and sheen. You may have noticed that the cable on the sleeve is a smaller version of the one on the body and does not have the bordering garter stitches on each side.

As usual I have chosen to knit it in part and sew it together for a better fit. The vent at the bottom is made by making each part and each sleeve in two parts before they are joined together. Part two is made first, in order for part one to be worked first when they are joined together. The collar became more generous than I initially had planned so I had to make a cowl to go with it with four of the central body cable. It was finished just in time for the photo shoot so it has only been photographed indoors so far and the colour is so off it does not even look green. You will just have to wait and see the stunning photos of model Silje Andresen/Team Models wearing instead. The cowl I only made in one size but you can easily adjust it if you want to. The sweater is graded in sizes XS to 2XL, with a bust circumference of 84 to 126 cm/33 to 49.5″ and a hip circumference of 98 to 140 cm/38.5 to 55″. I am wearing size S.

My husband photographed me wearing it in late November at Ormøya by the fjord. It was his suggestions that we take som arty shoots in this boxed in bench. Above you see the result. Unfortunately the shadows of the tree covered the whole bench on both sides, so I could not escape.

På Pinnen with My Design

Posted on December 14, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I am delighted to yet again have a design in the digital magazine: På Pinnen/On the Needle, a membership magazine for the Norsk Strikkeforbund/Norwegian Knitting Association. No, it is not the design on the cover. Luna Cowl is designed by Kari-Helene Rane, a Norwegian designer based in England and the creative half of the company Purl Alpaca Designs. I translated the pattern into Norwegian, even though I am sure Kari-Helene could have done it herself, but I did it since I am part of the editorial staff, working with editor Tove Fevang. Inside there is also an interview of Kari-Helene by Tove, in addition to a pair of mittens designed by Lill C. Schei and a cushion by Janne Wie. My design featured in the magazine is the Honeysuckle Shawl. Below you can see the first two pages of the pattern. I have also contributed with an article about Strik Bornholm.

If you know my designs, you might know that the Honeysuckle Shawl including the cowl and belt is worn by Alexandria Eissinger at Pholk, with hair & make up by Sissel Fylling, all brilliantly captured by photographer Eivind Røhne. The design was commissioned by former editor Mary-Ann Astrup for Made by Me but the magazine was replaced by Familien Trend in February 2015.

This is the last issue of På Pinnen that editor Tove and I worked on since the board has decided to change the format and look of the magazine, as well as introduce a monthly newsletter. It has been an enjoyable and educational experience! You can read more about the way forward for the Norsk Strikkeforbund in the magazine.

New Design: Cavallo

Posted on December 10, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I wanted to have another go at designing an a-line sweater with a rounded hem, this time with a Henley neck. This comes after my most successful pattern to date; the Oydis Sweater. Just as last time I found an attractive cable to be the focus point, but chose a solid yarn this time instead of a home made tweed mix; Dale Pure Eco Wool in a stunning soft sea-green colour. I tend to get easily bored knitting stockinette stitch, hence the row gauge is slightly off (28 rows instead of 30 rows) and it has become 3 cm/1.25″ longer than intended. The fit is based upon the Oydis Sweater, and it is meant to be worn with around 5 cm/2″ ease. The Norwegian pattern will be published in the special issue called Familien Kreativ which will be published in March next year. While the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group, beginning in May, before its release.

Here is my introduction to the pattern: A playful horseshoe cable adorns the body of this a-line sweater with a rounded hem. The Henley neck crowns the pullover and begins as a v-neck but ends a round neck, following the shape of the cable itself. The sleeves have been given symmetrical check patterns giving the appearance of cables. All parts ends in an I-cord bind off, and have garter stitches to mark the sides. Cavallo means horse in Italian and suits the horseshoe cable.

Cavallo is knitted in Dale, Pure Eco Wool made of 70% wool, 30% alpaca in 50 gram balls with 112 meters/122 yards, using a 4 mm/US 6 needle. The gauge is 21 stitches and 30 rows in stockinette stitch measures 10 cm/4″ square. The yarn was generously sponsored by House of Yarn. I choose to work all parts back and forth, then sewed it together. Each side on all parts has a few garter stitches as a side band. You can easily knit the sleeves and also the body in the round after the rounded hem.

I found the cable too large to fit on the sleeves and chose a check pattern which looks like fake cables on the center of the sleeve. It adds a bit of texture and makes the sleeves more fun to knit. I knitted both flat at the same time. I have graded the sweater in sizes XS to 2XL with a bust circumference of 84 to 126 cm/33 to 49.5″. I am wearing size S in the photos above taken by my husband at the end of October at Ormøya by the fjord in Oslo, close to where we live.

Designers Christmas Market at DOGA

Posted on December 7, 2016 by Linda Marveng

“Designernes eget julemarked”/The Designers’ Own Christmas Market was first organised in Oslo in December 1999, by a small creative group of friends who knew many great designers and makers. Since 2004 it has been held in the large and spacious premises of DOGA, short for the Norwegian Centre for Design and Architecture, in the city center. It attracts thousands of people each year, and is also getting more International every year. You will find designers offering: jewellery, paper ware, ceramics, cosmetics, books, leather products, clothing, knitwear, toys, wood work and textiles. There is a small entrance fee, but lots of bargains to be had since some of designers have sample sales or offer special discounts. This year I knew that both Siri Berrefjord – with her “bunadsplast”/National Costume plastic – and Cecilie Telle – with her felted garments and bags – would be present. Siri is a photographer, jewellery designer as well as re-designing clothes and had a stand at the market. Notice the brooch she is wearing on her inherited dress made in the same fabric used for one of the National costume aprons. Siri was also wearing a stunning brooch in her hair. Take a look at the poster behind her and you get the idea. She has made a number of stunning buttons for me, and had brought a number for sale, check out the left side of her table. You will find her shop called Siris skattkammer/Siri’s treasure trove at epla.no. Do also check out her webpage: Fredenshavn.no.

Cecilie Telle is Norwegian who lives in London with her Japanese husband and two daughters (you can spot Edie in the photo above). We first met working at the yarn shop Loop in Islington, North London, in 2005. Cecilie teaches handcraft at schools, holds knitting workshops and designs, mainly felted items. At her busy stall she sold popular scarfs, ponchos and bags. Above you can see a selection of what she had brought with her. There was also a queue of friends who stopped by to say hello, myself included. Cecilie sells her designs at Comme de Garcons’ flagship store in London; Couverture, London; Crafts Council, London; Contemporary Applied Arts, London; Norway Designs, Oslo and Takashimaya in New York as well as online at The Wolery. Here is how she presents the shop: “The Wolery is a family run shop, based in an old handbag factory in London. Our shop is a fusion between Japanese and Norwegian cultures which also happens to be the background of our family.” Cecilie’s house and studio are amazing just like her designs, so check out her blog and store for inspiration.

New Design: Gaylia

Posted on December 3, 2016 by Linda Marveng

Finally, I can begin to show you my latest designs and first out is Gaylia. A textural cross cable adorns this a-line sweater with vents. The cable ends in two smaller cables that continue along each side of the v-neck. A check pattern that resembles playful cables adds texture to the sleeves. Gaylia is Norse for jovial, and perfect for this everyday sweater knitted in Dale Pure Eco Wool. The Norwegian pattern will be printed in Familien Kreativ in March next year, together with 3 other new designs, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group before its release.

I wanted to test this new yarn called Dale Pure Eco Wool, and House of Yarn kindly sponsored it. It is made of 70% wool, 30% alpaca with a 112 meters/122 yards on each 50 gram ball and takes a 4 mm/US 6 needle with a gauge of 21 stitches and 30 rows to 10 cm/4″ square. I fell in love with the dark brown melange colour named Espresso 1207. Since I was busy knitting another sample, I asked Airin Hansen, aka Teodor on Ravelry to knit this for me. It is beautifully knitted, as always. Thank you, Airin!

You know how much I love accessories to go with my sweaters, and because I live in a climate where you have to dress in layers I made a short scarf with the same Check pattern as on the sleeve to crown the sweater so to speak.

The front and back are worked back and forth while sleeves are worked in the round. Each side has a few garter stitches as a side band and the sleeve has a false seam made of garter stitch. Scarf is worked in two parts ending in garter stitches and then bound off using a 3-needle bind-off.

Here is a detail of the v-neck and the join on the scarf which is made in two parts so that the Check pattern leans to one side each just as on the sleeves. Instead of having what appeared as a loose rib facing each other on the scarf, I choose to use garter stitch.

The opposite side of the scarf looks even more like checks than the front. Above you can also see the 3-needle bind off edge. The scarf is one size, but can easily be adjusted to a larger or a smaller size by adding or removing pattern repeats, while the pullover is graded in sizes XS to 2XL with bust circumferences from 84 to 126 cm/33 to 49.5″. I am wearing size S with no ease around my bust. The hip circumference is 14 cm/5.5″ wider than the bust. My husband photographed me on a lovely autumn day in October at Ormøya by the Bunnefjord, close to where we live in Oslo.

Behind the Scenes: Photoshoot at Architecture Museum

Posted on November 30, 2016 by Linda Marveng

It was a cold November day, our photoshoot took place at the National Museum – Architecture, but at least it was not raining. I had settled all formalities with the museum and they were expecting us, with an extra security guard since we were photographing outside around the Fehn Pavilion, in the “klostergang”/cloister, designed by Norwegian Architect Sverre Fehn. This time the team consisted of photographer Eivind Røhne, the hair & makeup artist Sissel Fylling with assistant Nora, model Silje Andresen/Team Models and assisting photographer Michael Marveng-Puckett. Silje retired as a full time model ten years ago, at the age of twenty seven, to my astonishment. She knew Sissel and was probably not too surprised that Sissel just had to cut her hair. So no change there, then.

We were photographing ten designs with two extra accessories, not all new designs: 2 designs returned from Interweave; Irina Pullover and Harding Cardigan; 2 old designs in need of new photos: Check Cable Cardigan and Cable On Scarf, in addition to 6 new designs. At the top is Hanasa a-line pullover, below is the Irina Pullover. I had, as usual, borrowed several skirts and a dress from designer Judith Bech. I am sure you recognise a few of those we used this time. In addition to jewellery from designer Kaja Gjedebo. Selecting from her home studio where she keeps it all, is ever so difficult and the list does seem to grow longer for each photoshoot…

Eivind and I started by walking around the premises together with Michael, to look at possible backdrops, while Sissel was cutting and then styling Silje’s hair. We agreed that the “klostergangen”/cloister was the best one, and that there were possibilities at the front, the main entrance door to the museum, the terrace entrance to Grosch Bistro, as well as the back wall. The interior – with its vaults and the tiled entrance hall – is lit with LED lights and difficult to use as backdrops without using blitz plus a lot of extra work for Eivind to do afterwards. The main building is the old (and first) National Bank completed in 1830, by architect Christian Heinrich Grosch, while the Fehn Pavilion was built in 2008, together with the refurbishment of the building into the National Museum – Architecture.

I had brought several blankets to keep Silje warm, in addition to a Reindeer skin I planned for her to sit on while we were photographing Biondo scarf and a short jacket. Below you can see how that worked out. As for keeping her warm, I made sure we started with the coldest designs and then the warmer ones. But we all got cold and had a warm lunch at 12.30 inside at Grosch Bistro. I had spoken to the manager to let her know that we would be a bit in and out during the day, ordered fruit and drinks for us in the morning and that we would have our lunch when we needed a break.

After lunch we were ready for the last designs. Thanks to Silje’s experience we could speedily photograph the remaining garments in quick succession. In time before the November light turned blue and the approach of what we call the “blåtimen”/blue hour arriving after dusk around 3.30 pm. All the photos reflect the amazing day we had, and the wonderful team work! Thank you so much!

Juul Cardigan Again

Posted on November 26, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I know you have seen the Juul Cardigan already since it was published in Interweave Knits Winter 2017 magazine, but I wanted to show you the photos my husband took of me wearing it in April, just before I sent it off. It was a glorious but cold day in April, when these photos were taken by the Bunnefjord at Ormøya, just below where we live at Bekkelaget in Oslo. The cardigan was made for the Winter Bride theme but can easily be worn with more casual clothing than a stunning wedding gown. I decided upon a pair of straight grey trouser. Above I am wearing the cowl twice around my neck, so it is pulling in the whole cardigan making it appear more like a ballerina wrap.

Here with the cowl once around the neck. Juul Cardigan: A reversible lace pattern is the focus point of this straight cardigan with a generous cowl collar and cuffs made of tucks. A fake garter stitch seam add a bit of structure to this cardigan. The cowl collar can be worn loose, folded once behind the neck or twice in front or three times around the neck in a ballerina style hence perfect for a Winter Bride.

Here I am wearing the cowl once around my neck, just as I put it on. My choice of yarn was an old favourite yarn the Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace 2/18 (50% tussah silk and 50% merino) held double, for its crisp stitch definition, lusciousness and softness. It was a yarn I discovered at the yarn heaven called The Handweavers Studio in London. It is knitted using a 3.25 mm/US 3 needle with a gauge of 24 stitches and 32 rows in Lace pattern with 2 strands held together. I love making the hem and the tucks on the sleeves and I make them with two circular needles held parallell. I have made a video of this technique, see my blogpost with video link (it begins 7.45 in): Knitting Techniques Videos.

The sample is knitted in the third size, with a bust measurement of 104 cm/41″, worn with 12 cm/4.75″ of ease on me. So it came out looser than intended, the same with the sleeve length, that had to be pinned up during photography. The sleeve length has been adjusted in the pattern. The cardigan pattern is available in six sizes. Here is the Interweave introduction to the cardigan: “This unusual cardigan will draw every eye with its striking features. The tucked stitch cuffs and long attached loop collar add sophistication to the already beautiful lacework that adorns the back and sleeves.” Thank you so much, Interweave Knits team!

Gift-A-Long 2016

Posted on November 23, 2016 by Linda Marveng

For the second year around, I am taking part in the Indie Design Gift-A-Long, GAL for short, on Ravelry. I had a great time last year seeing all the projects being made, the competitions, and all the chatting in the Indie Design Gift-A-Long group. You can easily join the fun even before you know all about, just like I did last year. The Indie Design-Gift-A-Long is a 6 week long KAL/CAL of holiday gifts made from patterns designed by a rather extensive list of independent designers. From Tuesday, November 22nd at 8:00 pm US EST to Wednesday, November 30th, 2016 at 11:59 pm US EST 335 indie designers will be discounting between 5 – 20 of their patterns 25% for this event. Use coupon code: giftalong2016. There are 2 200 electronic pattern prizes to be won as well as physical prizes, for taking part in the KAL/CAL and the Designer Hunt Game. Take a look at the interesting stats above.

Above are the most of the patters I have discounted, since each item in a pattern count as one. The collage was made for the sign-up and you can access the full list of designers and see all the collages here: ravelry.com. In addition we have all made a Gift-A-Long 2016 bundle of discounted patterns so that they are easy to find. The hard working group moderators and volunteers have also made a series of Pinterest.com/IndieDesignGAL boards for you to look at. Do join us!

Shalana Pattern Released

Posted on November 19, 2016 by Linda Marveng

Strikke 2016 at Hadeland Glassverk ended 30. October and the 5 garments I exhibited have been returned to me. Among them the pullover Shalana, knitted in the beautiful colour Avocado in Rowan Felted Tweed DK. Even the test knit has finished so I have released the English pattern on both Ravelry and on Loveknitting. The Norwegian pattern was published in Familien Strikk 2016 in August, and is still available to order from them. The sample was brilliantly photographed by Eivind Røhne, worn by Alexandria Eissinger/Nordic Model Agency with hair & make up by Jens J. Wiker and jewellery by Kaja Gjedebo Design, at Villa Malla in early June.

SHALANA Sand Cables that travel from the center towards each shoulder dominate this fitted sweater with a rounded boat neck. The center panel of double seed stitch is framed and increases in size with the cable move. On the long sleeves the cables dominate. Named after the most powerful spirit Shalana.

Sizes: XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL)

Finished measurements: Bust: 88 (94, 100, 106, 116, 126) cm/34.75 (37, 39.25, 41.75, 45.75, 49.5)” Waist: 78 (84, 90, 96, 106, 116) cm/30.75 (33, 35.5, 37.75, 41.75, 45.75)” Hip: 88 (94, 100, 106, 116, 126) cm/34.75 (37, 39.25, 41.75, 45.75, 49.5)” Length: 60 (61, 62, 63, 64, 65) cm/23.5 (24, 24.5, 24.75, 25.25, 25.5)” Sleeve length: 49 (50, 50, 51, 51, 52) cm/19.25 (19.75, 19.75, 20, 20, 20.5)”

Yarn: Rowan Felted Tweed DK (50% merino wool, 25% Alpaca, 25% Rayon, 50 g, 175 m/191 yds). Sample is knitted in Avocado 161: 7 (8, 9, 10, 11, 12) skeins; 1172 (1312, 1452, 1592, 1767, 1942) m/1282 (1435, 1588, 1741, 1932, 2124) yds.

Alternative yarns: The Fiber Company, Acadia (60% Merino Wool, 20% Silk, 20% Alpaca, 50 g, 133 m/145 yds). http://www.thefibreco.com/acadia.html Or another lightweight DK/8 ply or Sportsweight yarn.

Needles: 3.5 mm/US 4 circular needle (80 cm/32″ and 60 cm/28″). Adjust needle size as needed to match gauge.

Notions: Stitch markers, stitch holders, waste yarn and yarn needle.

Gauge: 24 sts and 32 rows in st st measures 10 cm/4″ square. 24 sts and 32 rows in Double Seed st measures 10 cm/4″ square. 18-st Sand Cables measures 7 cm/2.75″ across.

Notes: All parts are worked flat. The sand cables move from their center position on the body towards the shoulder by increasing into center Double Seed st panel and decreasing into st st at the side. The neckband is an I-cord bind off, which is grafted together at the end.