New Design: Lattice Back Jacket

DSC_1619-2I was captivated by an amazing cable panel in one of Barbara Walkers’ treasuries of stitch patterns, and knew I wanted it in a divine but not too dark a colour, so I chose melange purple in one of my favorite yarns: Ask-Hifa 2 using a 3.5 mm/US 4. Both Made By Me editor Mary-Ann Astrup and Makeløs/Remarkable stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik, approved of my color choice for this jacket in our series of Jugend style designs. The cable panel fitted easily onto the back, but not on each front, unless I made a sweater instead of jacket, but the design itself wanted to be a jacket so I had to ponder for awhile how to adorn the fronts and then the sleeves. The solution became obvious after studying the chart for a time; a set of three straight cables, identical to the moving central one in the chart. I knew it would give a classic look to the fronts hence it became a fitted vintage style jacket with a v-neck and eleven small buttons. Of course, I wanted Siri Berrefjord’s bespoke buttons (read: like an addiction) but realized that they needed to be small, hence would not show off their supreme quality. The Lattice Back Jacket pattern is available in Norwegian in Made By Me 2/2014, see the previous post, while the English version is currently being test knitted in my group on Ravelry and will be released on its completion.

DSC_1616-PS Edit-2What kind of edging do I want? I opted for a double hem, which I love, and then increase stitches for each cable in a set-up row, work using a smaller sized needle; a 3 mm/US 2.5 in this case. I do not always work this type of hem with 2 circular needles held together (see my blogpost with a video for hem & tuck making here: Knitting Techniques Videos) and use 1 as a stitch holder until it is complete because it does tend to roll a bit hence not stay as flat as I like it. Therefore I often prefer to attach it on the wrong side by hand, stitch by stitch at the end, that is my kind of embroidery.

DSC_1651-2The jacket is shaped for the waist in the sides in stockinette stitch. Just as the increases on the sleeves are made in stockinette stitch. I have made each front is 1 cm wider than 1/2 the back circumference, to achieve symmetry, usual in typical vintage garments. I was advised by the test knitters of my Tyrol Jacket, which has the same shape, to add under notes: “This jacket is like vintage jackets very fitted, please compare your waist measurements to the size you need and adjust if necessary, to make sure it will fit.” I initially made the jacket in sizes S (M, L, XL, 2XL) but since I received a few messages requesting an XS size, I have added it to the test knit. I am still looking for test knitters for size 2XL, so if you are interested send me a message on Ravelry.

20140605 MbM 680The buttons are made by husband in Fimo Soft modelling clay, they are shaped and a part of a paper clip is bended into a loop inserted into the ball, and then hardened in the oven. I had showed him Siri’s buttons, and this is his attempt. As you can see there is no pattern, and no layers of painted colors, only two colors mixed trying to achieve the right shade of purple. So the result is quite different from what both my husband and I had in mind, but it works very well. To add a bit of glamor to it, Kristin accessorized it with a brilliant brooch made by Siri, added meters and meters of chiffon fabric to make a large scarf bow and chose one of her pastel colored embroidered table cloths as a dress. It looked stunning on model Pia Cecilie/Team Models as the brilliant photographer Eivind Røhne captured on our photo shoot in Fredrikstad.

20140605 MbM 647The Lattice Back Jacket is currently being test knitted in my Ravelry group and the English pattern will be released on its completion. One knitter has chosen to add a zip instead of buttons to make it less vintage looking, while another has chosen to knit the hem in a contrast color. I cannot wait to see the finished jackets and with the incredible knitting speed a few are sporting it will not be long!

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Made By Me Magazine 2/2014

DSC_2035Our Jugend Love series is released. This has been a magnificent co-operation between Makeløs/Remarkable Re-design stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik and myself together with shoe designer Monica Stålvang and jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord for the Norwegian crafts magazine Made By Me. Editor Mary-Ann Astrup skillfully selected the rest of the team essential for the photo shoot at the Bjørnulfgården in Fredrikstad: Brilliant Photographer Eivind Røhne, stunning Model Pia Cecilie/Team Models and talented Make-up & Hair Stylist Janne Skarpeid Hermansen. In addition Kristin had asked her beautiful daughter Elise and handsome friend Adrian Bjørk to model some of her re-design pieces. Kristin’s preference of the Jugend period, especially its elaborate hand-made textiles, was the starting point, and fitted well with the intricate stitch patterns I favor. Truly remarkable is the way she drapes an embroidered table cloth into a skirt or dress or poncho, and accessorize it with contrasting fabrics preferably in bright clear colors. I had two designs I had already started that fitted well into this series: Icelandic Jacket and Cable Round Sweater, in addition I created two new ones: Lattice Back Jacket and Lyre Bolero. The article introduction actually begins four pages earlier with an interview of Kristin covering four pages, and then in these pages; four of her re-designed outfits.

DSC_2037Curtains, bell pulls, or a series of table clothes like these to the left; where one is made for the piano keys and the other for the piano itself. The latter one is skilfully used as a skirt. We occupied the stair case all day – thankfully it was not too busy – and were fortunate enough to borrow the keeper’s office as a changing and storage room to fill with Kristin’s suitcases and bags.

DSC_2038My Cable Round Sweater has interlocking cables framed by a rib in the side. The ribbing makes the straight sweater pull in and appear fitted. With a crew neck and a double stockinette band, I felt it need a long cowl you can wear twice around your neck. It is knitted in Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Pelt wool by Hifa in a divine melange light denim color using a 3.5 mm/US 4. Styled with a masculine white shirt and trousers with a studded jugend motif. As a contrast an orange chiffon scarf, and stunning cuff links by Siri Berrefjord were added to the outfit. The to-die-for Carmen Boots in petrol are by Monica Stålvang. Both designers are briefly presented with a photograph on the page. Notice that Adrian is wearing bell pulls as braces. I will release the English pattern after a test knit in my Ravelry Group, date to be confirmed. I am delighted to share that this sweater has made it to the blogsphere; Knitigating Circumstances by Kelly Dawn see her post: Pattern Radar August 2014.

DSC_2039The Lattice Back Jacket worn over a beautiful dress; is actually a large table cloth pinned together with the fringes making a stunning back drop. Meters and meters of tulle tied into a bow around the neck, adds glamor to the outfit. Adorning the front and the sleeves is a series of small cables, while the back has a large intricate cable panel. Like a vintage jacket it is very fitted, and the body pieces are knitted flat while the sleeves are knitted in the round in a gorgeous melange purple in Ask-Hifa 2 using a 3 mm/US 2.5. The English pattern will be released after the test knit, which has just started in my group on Ravelry, is completed. Next is the Lyre Bolero with its accompanying cummerbund, which also can be used as a cowl worn twice around the neck according to Kristin. The bolero is cropped and the body is knitted flat in pieces, while the sleeves are knitted in the round in the bouncy Embla-Hifa 3 using a 4 mm/US 6 needle. I made the cummerbund to add length to the bolero, which I imagined to worn with a beautiful skirt like this made of a table cloth with a black tulle petticoat beneath. The bolero is closed with magnificent jugend brooches from Siri Berrefjord. I will release the English pattern after a test knit, date to be confirmed.

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Last but not least is my Icelandic Jacket worn with a table cloth as a skirt, a tulle petticoat and gorgeous green Bettina Boots by Monica Stålvang. It is knitted in Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace in Juniper with cuffs in Rowan Felted Tweed and Rowan Fine Tweed, the latter is also used in the back panel and cowl, all using a 3 mm/US 2.5 needle. The sleeves are knitted in the round while the remaining 3 panels are knitted flat. The cowl is identical to the back panel just longer. Kristin also demonstrated how to use the cowl as a belt, merely by using a shawl pin to adjust it to the waist measurement. Only one bespoke button by Siri Berrefjord made it to the photoshoot (due to slow mail service), but you can see it with the planned three on the pattern page. I plan to have the Icelandic Jacket test knit in October after the Conic Coat, then released in English.

DSC_2034My Lattice Back Jacket also feature on the contents page, where editor Mary-Ann Astrup writes under the heading:  “Boundless Creative Enthusiasm” referring to stylist and re-designer Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik: “You can also see some of her gorgeous outfits, composed around old embroidered table cloths, bell pulls and curtains. In combination with new beautiful cable knits from Linda Marveng, the unity becomes sensational.” The magazine is available from newsagents like Narvesen and selected supermarkets or online here: Familiens lille butikk.

It was an amazing photo shoot and co-operation, which we have decided to do again. In the mean time, I am already working on the next series of designs for Made By Me with Monica Stålvang and a dress designer this time. More to follow.

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New Design: Icelandic Jacket

TucksMy design began with a photo of the bare wild nature at Iceland, on the digital magazine Twist Collective‘s mood board, last spring for their Winter 2013 issue. I began with Rowan Felted Tweed Dk in Watery – a color, reminiscent of the lagoons, that I have admired for a long time but not used – and discovered that to create a contrast it worked well with Rowan Fine Tweed in Wensley, a darker teal moving towards bottle green. For the main yarn I wanted something luscious with a bit of silk, and did not have to look for long until I discovered that Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace has a divine teal color called Juniper, available online at Handweavers Studio. I began thinking about sleeves, and decided I wanted repeated tucks to adorn the hands in Felted Tweed, then a reverse stockinette stitch band in Rowan Fine Tweed, and then plain stockinette stitch in Jaggerspun Zephyr Lace.

DSC_1898I love reversible cables and needed to break up all the stockinette stitches so a cowl in Rowan Fine Tweed would hold it all together. I planned to work the shrug in two parts from each sleeve, and graft them together. My Icelandic Shrug was submitted but rejected. After a long period of rejection, this time from me, I was ready to continue, and realized I wanted an A-line jacket. I am not a big fan of stockinette stitch since I find it tedious to knit, and thought I could use the cowl cable pattern as a back panel. My Icelandic Jacket, had found its soul, and was born. In addition to the cowl it needed a focus on the front; the solution was bespoke jewelry buttons by Siri Berrefjord see Siris’ Skattkammer/Treasure Trove. The pattern will be published in Norwegian in Made By Me on Monday, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my group on Ravelry in October before it is released in my Ravelry Store.

DSC_1903Both the jacket and the cowl is knitted using a 3 mm/US 2.5, and the body is knitted in three panels; Left Panel, Right Panel and Spine Panel. Each side panel is sewn to the Spine Panel and has an interfacing front band which is knitted simultaneously and then folded back. The bottom hem on the side panels is knitted into place. The sleeves with their tuck cuffs are knitted in the round to the armhole and then worked back and forth in rows. The cowl is identical to the Spine Panel, just longer and joined at the short ends. I made the jacket in sizes S (M, L, XL, 2XL) and the cowl just in one size.

DSC_1915I ordered 3 bespoke buttons from Siri, who suggested sewing snap fasteners on the back. Unfortunately due to slow mail, only 1 button made it for the photo shoot in Fredrikstad in June but it was sufficient to show it off. Here are the button details and do look at Siri’s photos of my swatches in a previous blog post: 3 buttons (17 mm/28L, 0.70″) and 3 sets of snap fasteners to attach on the back. Special ordered buttons on sample are made by Siri Berrefjord, siri@fredenshavn.no see Siris’ Skattkammer/Treasure Trove, and buttons-by-siri-berrefjord.

DSC_1923The cowl looks beautiful also wrapped twice around the neck, or adjusted with a shawl pin into a belt as Remarkable Stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik (see facebook.com/Makeløs Kristin E Halkjelsvik) demonstrated to me on the evening before the photoshoot. She has taught me how to wear unheard of textiles such as tablecloths as skirts, and I have taught her how to structure a photo shoot. During our lunch meetings we also found out that Monica Stålvang has the perfect bottle green wedge boots to match, called Bettina with a stunning stiletto look from behind, see shop.monica-stalvang.com/product/bettina-green . Below is a photo from the photo shoot in Fredrikstad, which was such a fun day with photographer Eivind Røhne (see beyondtheice), make-up & hair stylist Janne Skarpeid Hermansen, model Pia Cecilie/ Team Models and editor Mary-Ann Astrup. Not present in the photo is stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik who had started packing her suitcases of treasures.

DSCN1763I cannot wait to show you the result of the photo shoot and all the pages in upcoming Made by Me.

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Makeløs Redesign Fashion Show

_SBB3247I went to a Redesign Fashion Show by Makeløs/Remarkable – yes, it was and she is – stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik organized by Ullensaker Husflidslag/Craft association at Jessheim in February, and I am finally ready to blog about it. Thankfully, jewelry designer and photographer Siri Berrefjord, see Fredenshavn, was there capturing the event and so was Made by Me editor Mary-Ann Astrup. I was not merely attending, but together with designer Kristin Wiola Ødegård and Sidsel Janne Høivik, I contributed with one knitted garment; the Aran Bolero. The intricate cables would go well together with Makeløs’ love of the Jugendstil – or Art Nouveau if you prefer – in my opinion. During the evening she shared her passion for all handicrafts and re-design. It is not essential that you know how to sew, to make an old stunning embroidered tablecloth into a poncho or a skirt, as long as you know how to use a stapler or use safety pins creativly, is Kristin’s motto. Above is a well-known, intricate outfit by Makeløs that has been the window display at the popular bead and buttonshop, Perlehuset/Beading House in Oslo. It is equally astonishing from the front with its lace decorations, belt, embroidery and colorful brooch by Siri, see below. It is the first time I am working with Makeløs, and we have planned further collaborations, I am pleased to announce.

_SBB3248In a crowd with several hundred women, the male model was incredibly popular and stayed in his position for quite awhile, to everyone’s delight. Below is one of Makeløs’ tablecloths, with a cut hole that is covered up with a flower pot when it is used on the table, otherwise worn as a poncho, with a chiffon scarf around the neck together with jeans.

_SBB3174I had no idea how she would style my Aran Bolero, but knew it would be very different from my way. A skin coloured top with a chiffon ruffle at the bottom and with short petticoat for a hot and sexy look. Our two design worlds collide in this match of styling, according to one of my test knitters, and I could not agree more. Makeløs had planned to use a vintage embroidered bell pull as a belt, but did not get as far in time for the catwalk.

_SBB3135_1Another favorite outfit is this colorful embroidered wall hanging Makeløs has used a skirt below. She calls the outfit the “housewife’s comfort”, and has literally written it on the fancy underpants which is clearly visible in the gap of the ends of the wall hanging at the back. You will find a lot more photos at her Facebook page, look for Makeløs, and from her exhibition at Bakketunet.

_SBB3233I love her vision, use of color and Jugendstil inspiration and look forward to our next co-operation…

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A Tradition that Inspires

1460272_10151872631618143_1255876355_n_000Such a perfect way to spend an evening! I was encouraged by Makeløs/Remarkable stylist Kristin Elise Halkjelsvik, see bakketunet, to attend an evening with two small presentations by talented jewelry designer Siri Berrefjord of Fredenshavn and knitwear designer Thea Glimsdal Temte of HotNok/Hot Enough tailored clothing in colorful felt. Their topic was how tradition, folk costumes in particular, had inspired them to design the marvelous items they do. We were a small but dedicated group that had turned up at the Designerkollektivet/Designer Collective at Glasmagasinet in Oslo, accompanied by two fiddle players to transcend us into the right mood, we were seated among rails of discounted clothes by HotNok and discounted jewelry by Siri Berrefjord. The temptations proved too large for some, including my friend Kristin… After two talks both we were all filled with inspiration, and the need to create ourselves. While we chatted and studied all the offers, delicious home made cinnamon swirls, fruit, gingerbread cookies – Christmas is coming – chocolate and drinks were presented to us. The entrance fee ticket resulted in a magnificent draw with the possibility to win a pair of stunning earrings or a mixed bag of felted wool remnants. Two lucky winners went home even happier. I had to ask if Siri had considered making buttons, and to my delight she has already done so and would gladly special make some to order for me, all she needed was a yarn sample. At that point I lost my bearings and my head started spinning with ideas!

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First out was Siri who talked about her changing career from a photographer of antiques to a jewelry designer inspired by the very same antiques she used to photograph but with a very modern and trendy touch cast in colorful plastic. Siri transforms the traditional brooches and earrings into playful everyday accessories taking them into the future. See above, photographed by Siri herself, for an example of her brilliance, none are identical to each other of the brooches, as she paints with the different layers of colors on top of each other. Not exactly knowing what the outcome will be, but willing to leave it to chance with a strong gut feeling it will be magnificent. And of course she is right! You will find her jewelry for sale at Designerkollektivet and at her Norwegian online shop here: epla.no or contact her by e-mail: siri@fredenshavn.no.

DSCN1391Then Thea Glimsdal Temte continued and showed us photographs of folk costumes, and talked about how they have inspired her. She is a tailor by trade who has become more relaxed in her approach to design than her education allowed her to be. Felted wool in bright colors is her material, with a good cut, and small playful finishing details like a seam in a contrast color or an edging in a contrast material, see photo above from the Designer Kollektivet. Thea has specialist knowledge on historic textiles used in folk costumes, and is often contacted by the Norsk Folkemuseum/Norwegian Folk Museum who needs her expertise in fabric restoration. In addition to her collections, for sale at Designer Kollektivet and Norwegian online shop: miinto.no or contact: thea@hotnok.no, Thea custom makes dresses. One woman had seen her Huldra Dress – after the seductive forest creature in Scandinavian Folklore with a long tail, see wikipedia – a long cream coloured long A-line dress with buttons at the front and a tail, and wanted one. The customer did not want Thea to make her a new one, but was happy with the photographed one, since she wanted to use it the very next day for ice-skating so bought the very dress with that purpose in mind. Fairytales do come alive in all senses of the word.

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