Just as one knit along is coming to an end another one is beginning. Next up is the Arcade Vest in the A Place to KAL my Own group on Ravelry. The best acronym for this fairly new group must be KALMYO, I figured out and the moderators agreed. Yes, I do know two of them and they wanted to set up a poll in order to decide which of these three patterns of mine to have a KAL for: Japanese Lace Jacket, Arcade Vest or Cablewing Sweater. Now, that was a fun poll to watch and there were more than two votes, I am relieved to say. The result was the Arcade Vest knitted in Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk, Tinde Pelsull. Above you see it photographed by Kim Müller worn by the gorgeous former ballerina now yoga queen – see chiccayoga.com – Francesca Golfetto. The KAL begins 2nd April and lasts until 30th June. I will offer a discount on the pattern, as well as pattern prizes and I am delighted that Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk will offer 20% discount on the yarn. You can check out all the details here: ravelry.com/discuss/a-place-to-kal-my-own. Several of the group members have already remarked that the Arcade Vest was the first of my test knits they took part in, 3 years ago and taken us down memory lane. Now, I am curious to see who will join in.
I am so pleased to show you Marit’s beautiful Arcade Vest, knitted in a stunning burgundy Norsk Pelsull by Hillesvåg – the original yarn, see Norsk Pelsull. The color is so vibrant is should really be called Ruby. If you are a knitter you will be drawn into the background – yes indeed, it is a yarn shop – Fortuna run by Marit’s daughter Ellen. No wonder, you can find a marvelous photo of Marit dancing around in the yarn shop on her Ravelry page. Her Ravatar is Marit, and she test knitted size 2XL. Marit has also test knitted the Tyrol Jacket for me, so I am honored. Thank you so much, Marit! Now, for the link to Fortuna, located outside of Trondheim in Norway, but with an online shop stocking Hifa yarn among others, here it is: Garnbutikken Fortuna. The Norwegian pattern for the Arcade Vest was published in Familien no 3, and the English pattern is available to download from Ravelry, see: Ravelry.
The Arcade Vest pattern is now available in English, to download from my Ravelry Store, with chart, schematic and useful video links. Beautifully modeled by dancer Francesca Golfetto and photographed by Kim Müller. I am so grateful to the 11 test knitters who have checked and improved my English pattern in addition to my tech editor, thank you! The Norwegian pattern was published in the magazine “Familien”/The Family in January in issue no 3, and will be added to Ravelry when the rights revert to me. A straight vest inspired by Haider Ackermann’s architectonic style and jewel colours. It features arcades knitted by cables, framed by double moss/seed stitch and ends with an I-cord trim around the neck and armholes. The double front gives the vest weight – close it as you prefer with a shawlpin or a belt. Close it at the top for a trendy look and an asymmetrical opening. The sample is knitted in the beautiful Hifa Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Pelt yarn from Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk in a turquoise mélange color.
Size: S (M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL)
Bust: 92 (96, 102, 116, 124, 134) cm/36.25 (38.25, 40, 45.75, 48.75, 52.75)”
incl overlap: 6.5 (6.5, 6.5, 6.5, 8.5, 8.5) cm/2.5 (2.5, 2.5, 2.5, 3.25, 3.25)”
Length: 77 (77, 77, 79, 79, 79) cm/30.25 (30.25, 30.25, 31, 31, 31)”
Yarn: Hifa, Norsk Pelsullgarn in turquoise sh 1106: 4 (4.5, 5, 6, 6.5, 7.5) skeins;
1014 (1144, 1300, 1508, 1664, 1846) m/1109 (1251, 1422, 1649, 1820, 2019) yds (100% Norwegian pelt wool, 100 g, 260 m/284 yds). Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk
Alternative Yarns: Berroco, Ultra Alpaca Light (50% alpaca, 50% wool, 50 g, 133 m/144 yds). Berroco
Anzula, Kern (100% alpaca, 50 g, 160 m/175 yds). Anzula
Or another DK/8 ply yarn.
Needles: 3.5 mm/US 4 circular needle (80 cm/32″)
3.5 mm/US 4 circular needle (40 cm/16″)
3.5 mm/US 4 DPNs (2 for I-cord bind off)
Or size needed for gauge.
Notions: Cable needle, 3 stitch holders and yarn needle
Gauge: 20 sts and 24 rows in Arcade Pattern, 20 sts and 26 rows in double moss/seed stitch measures 10cm/4″ square.
Notes: The vest is worked in rows in one piece to armhole, where it is separated. The armhole band is worked in the round.
Dec: When decreasing for neck and armhole only for XL and 2XL, change first and last Arcade Pattern repeat into reverse stocking stitch to avoid decreasing in pattern.
Length: Adjust length by knitting additional rows in double moss/seed stitch at the bottom and/or more/fewer Arcade Patterns before armhole decrease.
Last weekend I held my new Knitting Design Workshop in Larvik, and I stayed – as always – with my friend & Ravelry Group moderator Nina Hove Myhre who together with Inger Kamfjord Andersen came wearing my design; Regal Purple Jacket (read: in uniform). How thrilled was I? You can only guess! Nina made hers in her own dyed wool Vandre, see FiberAndArt, while Inger made hers in the original Hifa Perle, for more details see Ravelry. The workshop was organized by Larvik Husflidslag, and held at their marvelous premises – filled with looms, sewing machines and dressmaker mannequins – next to the museum. As if that in itself was not enough, Nina had baked buns that very morning in their kitchen so that the smell welcomed us and they were absolutely delicious!
My plan was to go through the design process from beginning to finish, and follow one of my designs on its journey to completion; Tyrol Jacket was my choice since I have its initial submission proposal with a sketch and preliminary schematic. Instead of making tasks for each knitter to do, after I had covered a section of theory, I opted for them to bring a swatch in a pattern and yarn of their choice, then for them to make a project page where they would add their ideas as well as numbers as soon as they started to calculate with their gauge according to their measurements and chosen ease. I was amazed at the complexity of the swatches several of the knitters brought with them and recognized their Japanese influence, see below. All I had to do was make suggestions for edges and assist on calculations, especially the sleeve top one for a set in sleeve.
Totally essential for the workshop, in my opinion, were stitch manuals, my design bible by Shirley Paden, my own swatches and designs, as well as favorite shade cards I use for inspiration and yarn selections. I also had to bring copies of my book, obviously. Just in case some of the participants had not seen it.
On Sunday Nina had changed into another uniform, this time the Arcade Vest knitted in the original yarn; Norsk Pelsullgarn by Hifa in Grey Violett, see Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk. The Norwegian pattern was published in Familien in issue no 3 earlier this year, while the English pattern will be released shortly. I am delighted to say that Nina took part also in this test knit. Here is the pattern page on Ravelry. You can also read, with Google Translate, if you do not read Norwegian, Nina’s blogpost here: Fiber And Art.
My next Knitting Design Workshop is scheduled in Oslo organized by Østre Aker Husflidslag at the end of October but more workshops will follow. This weekend I am holding Japanese Patterns in Oslo organized by Vestre Aker Husflidslag, and I am working on my workshop paper. Next on my agenda is calculating my own new designs…
On the cover of the latest issue – no 3 – of the Norwegian magazine Familien is my Arcade Vest in the bottom left corner, photographed by Esten A. Borgos. The straight vest is inspired by Haider Ackermann’s architectonic style and jewel colours. It features arcades knitted by cables, framed by double moss/seed stitch and ends with an I-cord trim around the neck and armholes. The double front gives the vest weight – close it as you prefer with a shawlpin or a belt. Close it at the top for a trendy look and an asymmetrical opening. The sample is knitted in the beautiful Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Furyarn from Hifa in a turquoise mélange color, see ull.no. The pattern is available in size S to 3XL, bust measurement 92 cm/36.25″ to 134 cm/52.75″, for more details see ravelry. I am delighted with the responses to the vest on Facebook and Ravelry so far, and love following the test knit of the English pattern still ongoing in my group on Ravelry. The English pattern will be released in my Ravelry store after the test knit is complete.
Familien did not have enough space to show the vest with the wrong side out, which turned out surprisingly well, despite it being unintentionally photographed so. I already know one knitter who prefer the abstract side out as a result of that photo shoot, see this earlier blog post: professionally-photographed-arcade-vest. You can also follow my design process of it from the swatch to my own photo shoot here on my blog, if you want to backtrack: new-design-arcade-vest.
My Arcade Vest has been photographed twice by the Norwegian Magazine Familien/The Family. Once is usually sufficient but since the stylist had unknowingly chosen to use the wrong side out, not showing the cables, it had to be photographed again. I must admit that it took me a couple of seconds to discover what was wrong with the photo until the penny dropped. The straight vest inspired by Haider Ackermann’s architectonic style and jewel colors was not meant to be reversible nor did I consider that some knitters would prefer the wrong side out. The abstract pattern has its admirers, just as the beautiful Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Furyarn from Hifa it is knitted in. Below is one of the photos from the second series of photos with the right side out. Both are taken by Esten A. Borgos and will be shown in Familien when the pattern is published, date to be confirmed. I can also reveal that I chose to include the vest in my photo shoot and that it has now been photographed professionally three times. To be continued.
Yes, it is finally finished (= FO: finished object) and I am pleased with the result. A straight vest inspired by Haider Ackermann’s strict architectonic style and jewel colors. Arcades made by twists and cables, framed by double moss/seed stitch and outlined by an I-cord edge around neck and armholes. The double front adds volume and shape. You can close it as you wish; with a shawl pin, brooch or a belt. Stylish when closed at the top for an asymmetrical look. Using a 3.5mm/US 4, it has been a delight to knit in the newly launched Norsk Pelsull/Norwegian Furwool, a pure wool with a subtle sheen available in stunning melange shades here: ull.no. I am pleased to announce that the pattern has been sold to the Norwegian magazine Familien/The Family and will be published shortly – before the autumn, date to be confirmed. The pattern will be available in English in my Ravelry store (ravelry) a year after magazine publication – in the mean time you can queue it…
I needed time to consider what type of edge I should chose on this project – see my work-in-progress-wip post. In the end, it was trial and error. Making an edge on a swatch does not always solve the edging issue. I found the double moss/seed stitch edging at the front too flimsy and folded it completely – one of the options I had considered from the outset. The neck, I decided was perfect with an I-cord cast/bind off, for definition and a bit of added volume. I tried the same at the armhole but realised that the armhole needed a bit of shaping in addition so I chose to knit several rounds of moss/seed stitch first with a few decreases and then an I-cord cast/bind off. I considered adding buttons to the front, but prefer to wear it asymmetrical hence I made no buttonholes. A good option would be to add a decorative button – or more – with a snap fastener at the back, I believe.
The vest is knitted in one piece, half of each moss/seed stitch panel is folded back as interfacing – knitted together at the top and sewn in place along the WS. The neck stitches are picked up and cast/bind off with an I-cord. While the armholes are similar but worked in the round with a few rows of moss/seed stitch first before the cast/bind off. The arcade pattern – yes, it is from Barbara Walker’s second-treasury-of-knitting-patterns – consists of twists, increased and decreased stitches in the middle and is quite difficult to read but does feel like working with lego project: building arcades. It did not take long until I learned the stitch pattern by heart. That is my type of stitch pattern!