New Design: Halli

Posted on June 25, 2016 by Linda Marveng

A cardigan knitted sideways is a garment I have been planning to design for awhile, not unlike my sideways vest made for my Norwegian knitting book. When I received samples of the new yarn from Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk called Sølje, I knew it was the one. Sølje is a thinner version of Norsk Pelsullgarn made of 100% Norwegian Pelt wool with 350 meters/382 yards on each 100 gram skein and a wonderful luster to it. I choose to knit it using a 3 mm/US 2.5 needle with a gauge of 24 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch measures 10 cm/4″ square. Hence it became one of the four designs for Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk and for their yarn kits which will be launched at Oslo Design Fair. I choose a simple reversible pattern that reminds me of bricks, and added tucks at the bottom of the sleeves and at the beginning of each front. By playing around I discovered that making a tuck in reverse stocking stitch next to one in stocking stitch make them move apart and oppose each other. A small part of the collar is in garter stitch. My skilled sample knitter Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, has knitted the size Small sample.

A sideways cardigan with a reverse textural pattern, and deep waterfall fronts. Each front and sleeve has two tucks at the end; one in reverse stockinette stitch and one in stockinette stitch. Choose if you prefer to leave the fronts hanging loose, pinned loosely together or draped across each other. Halli, comes from Old Norse and means rock. Perfect for the stitch pattern and symbolicly for becoming the rock in your wardrobe. The body is knitted sideways in one piece, from right front to first armhole, where it is split and worked in two parts until armhole is complete, and back is worked to second armhole, and finally left front. Right front begins with a provisional cast-on, which is later removed and replaced by an I-cord bind-off, while left front ends in an I-cord bind-off. The sleeve is knitted in the round to the armhole, then flat to final bind off. The fronts and the sleeves have two tucks; one in reverse stocking stitch and one in stocking stitch after each other at the beginning. The tucks are worked with 2 sets of circular needles held together, and with the magic loop method on the sleeves.

I have graded the cardigan from size XS to 2XL, with bust measurements from 100 to 144 cm/39.25 to 56.75″, due to the extra wide fronts. In the pattern I have added the following ease/size note: The cardigan is intended to be worn with extra ease at the front to create the waterfall effect. If you want less fabric to drape at the front, work a shorter front before the armhole on right front and after armhole on left front. If you prefer a shorter length on the body choose a smaller size when casting on, but work to the lengths given and the armhole for your correct size.

The fronts can easily be draped and pinned together as you please, as you can see from the photo above. It does look better if you do this in front of a mirror though, and not without one as I did. The Norwegian pattern will only be available in the yarn kit from Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk and will sold as a guest design in September here: /garnpakker/hillesvag-eksklusiv-gjestedesign, while the English pattern will be test knitted in February in my Ravelry group before its release. I must admit that this is my favorite of my new designs, and it has just been sent off to Hillesvåg Ullvarefabrikk as their display sample for Oslo Design Fair and other upcoming fairs. So for the future I will truly cherish the professional photos we took of Halli. You wait and see.

New Design: Githa

Posted on May 28, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I am busy preparing for my next photoshoot on Wednesday, which I look forward to despite the fact that I am still knitting on three of the nine new designs to be photographed. Today you can see more proof of why I choose to hire a professional model. Here is one of the new designs that is ready. Githa: A central wavy lace panel adorns this a-lined tunic tank with garter stitch bands. The lace pattern creates fans with boxes of garter stitch in between creating texture to the uneven chainette yarn made of a mixture of cotton, linen and viscose, Rowan Panama. The yarn makes the tunic tank easy to wear during the summer or for a party. A generous shaped cowl covers your shoulders and dress up the tunic tank to make a perfect set called Githa, from Anglo-Saxon; to give or a gift. The Norwegian pattern will be published in Familien Strikk at the end of August.

The tunic started its life as a top, and was rejected as a design submission twice. Firstly, because the whole collection collapsed. Secondly, because it did not fit into the magazine. The proposal was given new life with a longer body, and a scoop neck with an additional shaped cowl. The tunic pattern has been graded from size XS to 2XL, while the cowl comes in XS/S (M/L, XL/2XL).

The lovely slubby yarn has unfortunately been discontinued, but is still available to buy. It had already been knitted by the speedy sample knitter Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, before I found out. A number of alternative yarns has been listed in the pattern. Rowan Panama is listed as a fingering/4-ply yarn with a gauge of 27 stitches and 36 rows using a 3.25 mm/US 3. Neither Grete nor I managed to knit it at that gauge. I tried with a 3 mm/US 2.5 and ended up with 25 sts and 36 rows. It did however look too tight for the yarn, and I opted for the suggested needle size 3.25 mm/US 3 and a gauge of 24 sts and 32 rows instead. The yarn has been generously sponsored by Rowan Yarns’ Scandinavian Agent, Permin.

I am wearing size S and was trying to keep warm in the cold wind and drizzle. My husband was given the order of being quick to photograph me so I could put on more clothes. My favorite of these photos are definitely the back view. If the stitch pattern seem familiar to you, I can reveal that it is the same one I used for the Adoe jacket. I cannot wait to see how this will look on my stunning model Alexandria Eissinger. You wait and see.

New Design: Ronette

Posted on May 21, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I came across these cables in one of my Japanese stitch pattern books and new I had to design with it. The way the central cable ends in a bulb or Tulip shape drew me in. I tested out different yarns and loved how it looked in Rowan Lima but since the yarn has been discontinued I opted for the new lovely blend of cotton, nylon and yak called Rowan Softyak DK; it is indeed soft and lovely to wear. Why not make a long a-line sweater with rib at the bottom creating a vent and then add a few garter stitches in the side so that the seam looks like a for a zip. Each front and back were given the full cable panel, while I chose to distract a third of the cable for the sleeve so that I could take it all the way to the top of the sleeve. I did want to knit this sweater myself but since speedy sample knitter Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, had finished Shalana she was ready for another one. A relief in the end since I still had more to knit. The Norwegian pattern will be published in Familien Strikk in late August, while the English pattern will be test knitted and then released on Ravelry. But first I need to finish the pattern, that is.

The sweater is knitted using 4 mm/US 6 needle with a gauge of 22 stitches and 32 rows in stocking stitch after blocking. The cables might look complicated but they are not and they do keep you interested as the cable pattern develops. I choose stocking stitch on each side of the cable to frame them. The neckline, identical on both sides is created by the shoulder shaping, and ends in an I-cord bind off. The Softyak DK comes in 50 gram skeins with 135 m/148 yds and was generously sponsored by Permin Rowan’s agent in Scandinavia.

The pullover is named Ronette which means “strong counsel” in Old English, because I think it fits. It will be available in sizes XS to 2XL. I am wearing size S, knitted with a gauge of 21 instead of 22 at the top part hence with a slightly looser fit than intended across the bust and cross back. It is easy to do when under time pressure. My husband took these photos of me on our terrace in the rain yesterday.

Ronette is one of 5 new designs for Familien Strikk, and one of 9 new designs to be photographed by Eivind Røhne at our photoshoot on 1st June. 2 of my designs for Interweave Knits; Yellow Gold Pullover and Inverness Sweater will also be photographed again, this time so that I can sell the pattern when the rights revert to me. More news about the upcoming photoshoot and new designs will follow, so keep in touch.

New Design: Shalana

Posted on May 14, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I am thrilled to show you one of my new designs, Shalana. One of my latest obsessions is moving cables across the body. Here I looked for cable or panel of cables which could be moved from the center to the shoulder. I choose Sand Cables surrounded by double moss in the center framed by a twisted stitch and stockinette in the sides. Rowan Felted Tweed in Avocado begged to be used to give life to the cables. The resulting sweater is fitted with long sleeves decorated with Sand Cables just as the front. Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, knitted this sample for me with a different gauge than planned, hence I am wearing size Large in these photos. The Norwegian pattern will be published in Norwegian in Familien Strikk at the end of August, while the English pattern will be test knitted before its release on Ravelry. Shalana will be included in my next photo shoot at the end of this month.

Here is my introduction to the pattern: Sand Cables that move from the center towards each shoulder dominate this fitted sweater with a rounded neckband. The center panel of double seed stitch is framed and increases in size with the cable move. On the long sleeves the cables dominate. Named after the most powerful spirit Shalana.

The intended gauge is 24 stitches and 32 rows in stockinette stitch using 3.5 mm/US 4 needle measures 10 cm/4″ square. The 18-stitch Sand Cables Panel measures 7 cm/2.75″ across. This is the result of my swatch. I decided to work all parts flat, to enhance the fit. But you could easily remove the added selvedge stitch and knit the body and the sleeves in the round.

The sand cables move from their center position on the body towards the shoulder by increasing into the center double seed stitch panel and decreasing into the stockinette stitches at the side. The neckband is an I-cord bind off, which is grafted together at the end. I am really happy how well this turned out, despite not being the size I wanted it to be. All the photos above are taken by my husband on a chilly but wonderful day earlier in May just 10 minutes from where we live at Ormøya by the fjord. We have chosen an equally stunning location for our next photo shoot. More news will follow.

Photoshoot at Ekeberg Restaurant: Maith

Posted on March 2, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I am delighted to show you the professional photos of Maith taken by brilliant photographer Eivind Røhne of the gorgeous model Alexandria Eissinger with hair & make up by Sissel Fylling as well as jewelry by Kaja Gjedebo Design. I was hoping that the color would be a shade of gold and not green, but I have grown fond of the pale green color named Hush. Instead of showing it off over a wedding gown, I opted for a silk top in cream and taupe silk trouser. Eivind suggested a neutral but stark background as the staircase on the side of the restaurant could offer. The Norwegian pattern of Maith will be released on Ravelry very soon, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group before it is published. Here is my introduction to the pattern: Divine silk and gracious cables give this shrug a feeling of goodness just as the old Irish word ”maith”. The shrug is worked from one sleeve cuff, across the back to the opposite sleeve cuff. Knit a cowl and use it as a collar on the shrug. Rowan Truesilk gives you a luxcurious feeling and makes it perfect even for evening wear.

Rowan Truesilk is made of 100% mulberry silk and is a chainette yarn – in other words the strand looks like it is knitted already, just like a narrow I-cord – with 150 meters/164 yards on each 50 g ball. Unlike other pure silks due to its construction it does not grow with blocking. The shrug and cowl is knitted using a 4 mm/US 6 with a gauge of 23 stitches and 30 rounds in stockinette stitch. The yarn was generously sponsored by Permin, Rowan’s Scandinavian agent. While I was busy knitting up designs for upcoming Interweave Knits, Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry assisted and knitted up this sample for me. As usual in a speed I can only dream about, especially with all the cables with give the set a lovely texture.

The shrug is worked from cuff to cuff in one piece. The cuff and sleeve are worked in the round, then worked flat across the back to the opposite sleeve where it is worked in the round to the final bind off at the cuff. The increases on the sleeve is first worked into the purl stitches between the cables in reverse stocking stitch, then in garter stitch at each end of round. Only the width varies between the different sizes, not the length. Adjust the length by removing or adding pattern repeats to each sleeve if desired. The cowl, with the same width as the back, is knitted lengthwise as a scarf with a provisional cast-on so that the ends can be grafted together. As you might have noticed, I like wearing shrugs like these over dresses in the summer but also over tops with decorative backs like the one in the photo above. Next up is Saqqara worn over a gobsmacking wedding gown by Judith Bech. So be prepared…

Photoshoot at Ekeberg Restaurant: Helka

Posted on February 20, 2016 by Linda Marveng

The time has come to show you the stunning photos taken by Eivind Røhne of Alexandria Eissinger with hair and make up by Sissel Fylling and jewelry by Kaja Gjedebo Design wearing Helka over a tulle skirt by Judith Bech. The Norwegian pattern of Helka will be published in the special issue Familien Kreativ out on 14. March, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group, late Spring, before its release. The Helka sample is knitted in a combination of a pure combed wool in 3-ply Hifa Huldra Kamgarn and an alpaca mix in a chainette lace yarn: Du Store Alpakka, Dreamline Soul held together using a 4 mm/US 6 needles by Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry. Here is my introduction to the pattern: A long straight classical jacket with woven cables in a diamond pattern that ends in a rib. The cables are erased into a rib, then into stockinette stitch in the sides. Named after Helka the prosperous one, it has a deep v-neck and a double button band, leaving all the glory to the cables. Use it with a belt or adorn it with beautiful buttons like these jewelry ones by Siri Berrefjord.

Helka is knitted with a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette stitch with both yarns held together. Both the yarns were generously sponsored. The Woven Cable has cable crossings on every second row, so it is time consuming, but also very rewarding to knit. I also wanted to add the most beautiful buttons I could think of, so I ordered bespoke buttons by Siri Berrefjord. You can study the details in the photos, Siri herself took of them in this blogpost. There are 14 buttons attached on the jacket, but you can easily adjust it to your own preference.

The body is knitted from the bottom and up in 3 parts, back and forth, while the sleeves are worked in the round. The Woven Cable pattern ends in a rib at the sleevecap and at the v-neck shaping on the fronts, as well as on shoulders at the back. The sleeves have one cable pattern repeat and rib on the remaining part.

I did consider making the sides in rib too, but realized that the Woven cables only need a frame and that stockinette stitch would highlight them more than a rib would. Hence the sleeve could easily have been made with stockinette stitches on the inside instead of rib.

The neckband was picked up and knitted the evening before the photoshoot, so I did not have time to adjust the number of stitches in the back neck to the rib below, but I have decreased a number of stitches in the pattern to make it lie flat. The brilliant idea to wear Helka only over the tulle skirt – intended as an underskirt/petticoat by dress designer Judith Bech – was Sissel’s since it did not work out as I had hoped with any of the wedding gowns I had borrowed. I am ever so thrilled with the resulting photos, and extremely grateful to be able to work with such a magnificent team!

Photoshoot at Ekeberg Restaurant: Elora

Posted on February 13, 2016 by Linda Marveng

The bolero looked stunning worn by gorgeous Alexandria Eissinger on top of Judith Bech’s “Secret” wedding gown. Alexandria’s hair & make up is by Sissel Fylling and the jewelry is by Kaja Gjedebo Design. The beautiful photos are all taken by Eivind Røhne at the Ekeberg Restaurant last October. Elora and three other designs: Shinju, Adoe and Helka will be published in Norwegian in the special issue Familien Kreativ out on Monday 14th March. The English pattern to Elora will be test knitted in April in my Ravelry group before its release. Here is my introduction to the pattern: A beautiful reversible lace pattern adorns this bolero with a slightly longer scarf collar you can fold and pin as you desire. Garter stitches make up the edges of the bolero and divide the stitch pattern from the stocking stitch sides. Named after the giving of the laurel; the crown of victory and ideal for this garment made in a wool and cashmere mixture by Mondial. The bolero is worn over the wedding gown “Secret”, designed by Judith Bech.

Mondial Gold is an exclusive mix of 80% wool and 20% cashmere on a 50 g skein with 175 m/191 yds. The sample is knitted in Cream 426, to show off the crisp stitch definition. The bolero is knitted using a 3 mm/US 2.5 needle with a gauge of 26 stitches and 34 rows in stocking stitch measures 10 cm/4″ square. The yarn was generously sponsored by Mondial’s Scandinavian Agent: House of Hobbies. The sample was knitted by Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, to my utter satisfaction.

The body of the bolero is worked in pieces from the bottom up, and is sewn together, while the sleeves are worked in the round. The bolero is slightly tapered. The collar width is in additon to the front and bust circumference so that it can be folded and pinned as desired. It is knitted in two parts that are joined and then attached around the neck, with extra length to hang loose.

The bolero comes in sizes XS to 2XL with a bust circumference of 85 to 126 cm/33.5 to 49.5″, waist circumference of 82 to 123 cm/32.25 to 48.5″ and length from 47 to 52 cm/18.5 to 20.5″. The length of the bolero as well as the scarf is one that easily can be adjusted by removing or adding pattern repeats.

In the photos above you see the scarf collar folded in to create more volume to the neckline but it does look equally good just hanging flat or pinned together. The scarf collar width is in addition to the bust width so that it can hang loose as a scarf. The wedding gown with its feather mermaids tail had to be shown in all its glory, in my opinion.

New Design: Maith

Posted on January 20, 2016 by Linda Marveng

The new silk yarn from Rowan, called Rowan Truesilk, captivated me in an instant. In addition to making a jacket in the cream color called Adoe, I decided to make a shrug with a cowl for collar. The pure mulberry silk has a generous 150 meters on each 50 gram ball, and for the shrug I choose the shade Hush 333 which I believed to be like a gold shade. It was more green than I anticipated but still divine. The shrug is worked from one sleeve cuff, across the back to the opposite sleeve cuff, with gracious cables all along it. The set was beautifully knitted by my sample knitter Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry. The yarn was kindly sponsored by Permin, Rowan’s Scandinavian agent. I will self publish the Norwegian pattern in my Ravelry Store in February, but have the English pattern test knitted in my Ravelry group before its release in the late autumn.

The shrug and cowl are both available in 3 sizes: XS/S (M/L, XL/2XL) and both are knitted using a 4 mm/US 6 needle with a gauge of 23 stitches and 30 rounds in stockinette stitch to 10 cm/4″ square. Only the width varies between the different sizes, not the length. You can easily adjust the length by removing or adding pattern repeats to each sleeve if desired. The shrug is worked from cuff to cuff in one piece. The cuff and sleeve is worked in the round, then worked flat across the back to the opposite sleeve where it is worked in the round to the final bind off at the cuff. The increases on the sleeve is first worked into the purl stitches between the cables in reverse stocking stitch, then in garter stitch at each end of round.

All the photos above are taken by my husband on our terrace a few days before the photo shoot. I planned to show the shrug and cowl over one of Judith Bech’s divine wedding gowns but due to time constraints it was professionally photographed by Eivind Røhne on Alexandria Eissinger in the same top but different silk trouser than I am wearing above. I cannot wait to show you those photos but first I will reveal the last design in this bridal series I have made.

New Design: Keya Scarf & Shrug

Posted on January 8, 2016 by Linda Marveng

Voluminous hidden sand cables in a tweed mixture made of Rowan Lima and Rowan Fine Tweed, creates a divine texture that is reversible. First I made a scarf that was initially intended for the Nordic Vintage series published in Made by Me in September 2014, but did not fit the color scheme and was taken out. I took it out again last autumn and figured out it would definitely fit with my neutrals in the wedding gown series. But even at a winter wedding the bride will need more than a scarf to go over the wedding gown hence I thought a shrug with bell sleeves would do the job. Maybe even with a loose back panel to cover a bare or partly bare back too. The result is a shrug with a loose back panel and a scarf for collar or just make the scarf, or just the shrug. I plan to publish the Norwegian pattern on Ravelry in February and the English one after it has been test knitted in my group, early this autumn. Grete Jenssen, aka ma9, knitted the shrug magnificently and with the usual speed to which I slowed her down by having to send her more yarn…

By holding Rowan Lima made of 84% baby alpaca, 8% merino, 8% nylon, on 50 g balls with a put up of 110 meters/120 yards together with Rowan Fine Tweed of 100% wool on 25 gram balls with 90 m/98 yds put up, I made a dense tweedy and soft texture. I decided to knit on the recommended needles for Lima; 5.5 mm/US 9 to avoid the garment dropping and to make the cables pop. The result is a gauge of 16 stitches and 27 rows in garter stitch. The shrug is knitted from cuff to cuff, sideways in one piece. The first sleeve is knitted in the round, to the flat back and is then joined again for the second sleeve. I decided to keep the back piece loose so that it can be used around the neck too if desired, or pinned with an earring or a brooch to the back of the shrug and the scarf, see below (where I used safety pins). The yarn was kindly sponsored by Permin, Rowan Yarns’ Scandinavian agent.

The scarf come in one size but can easily be adjusted by in width by adding repeats or edge stitches in garter stitch, while the shrug comes in 3 sizes: XS/S as I am wearing above, M/L and XL/2XL. The only variation on the shrug is the width of it and the width of the back panel. The cables do look complicated but all stitches are worked in either garter stitch or 1/1 rib all along, including in the cable crossings.

All these photos were taken by my husband a few days before the photoshoot in October. I tried it over the wedding gowns I had borrowed from designer Judith Bech and guess what? The color did not match at all, hence I ended up choosing a pair of silk trouser in taupe to go with it instead. The photos of Alexandria wearing it made by jaw drop and my head spin. You wait and see!

New Design: Helka

Posted on January 2, 2016 by Linda Marveng

I was instantly captured by these intricate cables that look woven with such a sculptural feel to them. They needed a lot of space so I decided to make a long straight jacket with those diamond shaped cables covering all central parts of the jacket. I loved the idea of the cables vanishing first into a rib then into stocking stitch in the sides of the body and into a rib on the top of all the parts. The sleeves are made in cables and rib, but the increases could easily be made in stocking stitch if preferred. Named after Helka the prosperous one, the jacket has a deep v-neck and a double button band, leaving all the glory to the cables. Of course, I wanted bespoke buttons and Siri Berrefjord obliged. I initially planned to make this long jacket to go with a wedding gown with a straight skirt hence I choose white Dreamline Soul from Du Store Alpakka and held it together with the Huldra Kamgarn from Hifa for a slight tweedy structure to it. With cabling on every second row and round, I need help to knit the sample and Grete Jenssen, aka ma9 on Ravelry, was ready to assist and knitted it to my utter satisfaction. The Norwegian pattern will be published in the special magazine: Familien Håndarbeid out in March, while the English pattern will be test knitted in my Ravelry group late spring before it is released.

The jacket is knitted with the 2 yarns held together using a 4 mm/US 6 with a gauge of 20 stitches and 28 rows in stocking stitch measuring 10 cm/4″ square. The body is knitted from the bottom and up in 3 parts, back and forth, while the sleeves are worked in the round. The Woven Cable pattern ends in a rib at the sleevecap and at the v-neck shaping on the fronts, as well as on shoulders at the back. I have graded the jacket from size XS to 2XL, with bust circumference from 84 cm to 124 cm/33 to 48.75″. The length is from 79 cm to 84 cm/31 to 33″, but it can easily be adjusted to preferred length. I am wearing size S (sample size) in these photos taken by my husband on our terrace on a cold November day. Both yarns were generously sponsored by Hillesvåg and Du Store Alpakka.

I was uncertain how many buttons I wanted. Personally, I would probably only use 3 around the bust area, but also loved the idea of of filling the double button band with Siri’s jewelry buttons to adorn the jacket even further. In the end I reasoned that it was better for me to calculate too many buttonholes and for the knitter to remove those not wanted. First, I thought 13 buttons would be enough but ended up adding all the 14 buttons Siri had made. The rib at the top of the back also required that I decrease the number of stitches of the button band at the back neck. This was not done on the sample since I was knitting the button band the evening before the photo shoot and had no time to undo the more than 400 stitches and re-do. The pattern has been corrected to decrease 8 stitches, and is now in a queue with my American tech editor Corrina Ferguson of Picnic Knits. I ended up choosing 5 of Judith Bech’s wedding gowns for the photo shoot and which one suited the Helka best? The tulle petticoat/underskirt which I preferred to use on its own and not under any of the wedding gowns…

Linda Marveng

Knit wear designer and author

Tag Archives: Grete Jenssen